James Nesbitt's Ireland (2013) s01e08 Episode Script

Episode 8

Welcome to Ireland - an enchanting place with spectacular scenery, a vibrant history and a character that's all its own.
I'm James Nesbitt and I'm taking a journey of discovery to meet the people What is it you're looking for? A good sense of humour.
That's me.
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and visit the places that capture the true spirit of my homeland.
It's utterly beautiful.
It's so peaceful.
So epic, so vast.
So why not join me? I promise it'll be a journey you'll never forget.
A single day of good weather in a long stretch of bad days is known in Ireland as a pet day.
And it's true the subject of the weather pops up continually in pubs and bars throughout the land.
Rain one minute, blazing sun the next.
But this temperamental climate produces something else, too - the most spectacular rainbows.
And you know what you find at the end of those.
Let's hope the weather holds, as this week we'll be exploring Ireland's rich coastal culture.
Whether it's following a young Irish hopeful at the World Oyster Opening Contest This is representing my country, so it's a big day.
It's a big day.
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hitting the surf at the stunning Cliffs of Moher Absolutely stoked.
I think we surfed for seven hours, which I haven't done since I was 15.
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or marvelling at the maritime heritage on display in Dublin.
They used to say years ago, when the ships were made of wood, the men were made of steel.
The rugged coast of Northern Ireland and the majestic Giant's Causeway is famous the world over.
These are the biggest Irish rock stars.
40,000 honeycomb shaped columns formed around 60 million years ago by shifting tectonic plates and cooling lava.
It's a unique landmark that's particularly close to my heart.
I grew up not far from here and used to make regular day trips with my family.
It's somewhere I still visit regularly, but these days you get to arrive in traditional style - via tram on the renovated Bushmills Railway, accompanied today by tram expert Craig.
Beautiful day here on the North Antrim coast! Balmy weather! How long has the tram been running? It's been running here for about ten years now.
It was opened in the year 2000.
And it was initially opened in 1883 and finished in 1949 because the company ran out of money.
1883? Yeah.
The original tram from the Giant's Causeway to Portrush.
Really? So people have been going to the Causeway since that time? Yep.
Does it get very busy? Does get very busy in the summer.
Not so much when the weather's like this.
Yeah.
The rain may be lashing down, but nothing's gonna stop my trip down memory lane.
This place has changed quite a lot since I was a boy.
600,000 tourists, locals, geologists and schoolchildren come through the visitor's centre every year.
If you look all the way to the right where the cliff ends, there's a little cave entrance there.
But the majesty of the stones never changes.
And even in the blustery grey of an Irish autumn, it's still quite the spectacle.
Joe, good to meet you.
How you doing? Is this for me? It is indeed.
You'll need that.
The weather today is what we in Northern Ireland call 'fresh'.
Ranger Joe McCollum is here in all weathers.
We're made of tough stuff up here.
What is people's reaction when they come and see it for the first time? There's nothing like it, so there's a magic about it, isn't there? There is.
I think people are so used to seeing rocks, they think it's just a pile of rocks.
But when they come here and see all the exact formations, it really does blow your mind when you see it the first time.
That's usually the first reaction - just look at it in awe.
I know that was my first reaction.
It's wonderful to be back at the Causeway.
I came here as a child, and the first time I came here, I'll never forget just that feeling of total awe and wonder at seeing the stones for the first time.
And that never leaves you.
It's very evocative for me.
But also, just seeing it time and time again, it is timeless.
Even on a day like today where the weather is a wee bit more dramatic, that provides an almost better backdrop.
Well, maybe you'll take me around a bit and show me what you do.
Yeah.
We've got the weather for it! This is truly a wonder of nature, but it's the myth of the Giant's Causeway that really brings it to life.
I'll be finding out more about that later - if I don't get swept away first.
The sea has shaped our coastline for millions of years.
Follow its curve from Northern Ireland to the west coast and you'll find a bounty that's coveted throughout the world - Galway oysters.
From September to April, these plump little beauties are in season and in demand.
It's a delicacy I'm more than partial to.
It hasn't always been this way.
Farmed and eaten in Ireland since the 13th century, oysters were originally a staple food of the poor.
These days, Ireland has over 150 oyster farms, producing nearly 7,000 tonnes of oysters every year.
The oysters are fished in the winter time out in the wild oyster fishery.
They're brought in here then where they get fat.
Oyster farmer Dermot Kelly knows these waters better than anyone.
His family have been farming here since the 1950s.
We grade them, sort them and sell them all over the world.
For local restaurateur Michael Moran, a regular visit to Dermot's farm is one of the perks of the job.
Oysters are my life and, you know, I eat, drink and sleep oysters.
And that's it.
It's just great to be out here.
The Morans have had a restaurant here for over 250 years, but they're also known for another skill - oyster opening, which, in Ireland, is a big deal.
Michael is in training for the World Oyster Opening Championships, which are being held at the Galway Oyster Festival.
His father was twice world champion, as was his uncle, and as this year's Irish entrant, Michael carries the hopes of the nation family on his shoulders.
The start of the season and I'm so excited because every year I make this trip down to Dermot.
And it's great that you can be with me this year and see.
I have to go and check the oysters, see what they're like.
The flavour changes every month and it changes every year.
Oh, Dermot.
All right? Beautiful.
It's just great to be out here because you travel the world opening oysters and every day at the restaurant.
And this is what it's all about.
And it doesn't get much better than this.
Organic bubble wrap as well to protect them.
Michael's not the last of famous Moran oyster openers - today brother William is learning the ropes.
And if you've ever wondered how to open oysters, here's the secrets.
So, you're examining where the adductor muscle is going to be.
You've got to say, 'How am I going to get at that?' So we're just gonna crack into that hinge, then we're gonna angle the knife towards the top shell of the oyster.
We're running the knife through at that angle, protecting the meat at all times.
There we go.
And pulling right through.
Yeah.
That's free from the shell.
Fantastic.
You do that in competition and you'll have an Irish title soon.
For Michael, the big day has arrived.
Months of practice have led up to this event.
The Galway Oyster Festival is one of Europe's longest-running food extravaganzas, attracting more than 10,000 visitors who come to gleefully glug down tonnes of the town's finest oysters.
At the heart of the festival is the World Oyster Opening championships, attracting the best openers from all over the globe, who all come here to compete for the title of world champion.
This is representing my country, so it's a big day.
It's a big day.
After months of preparation and thousands of practice oysters, it all comes down to just over two minutes of high speed, adrenaline-fuelled oyster opening.
Each competitor has to open 30 oysters in the fastest time possible.
Ladies and gentlemen, if I could ask the contestants, hands in the air.
Three, two, one! They're off.
Although the competitors are racing against the clock, they also need to think about style, as marks are also awarded for the best presentation.
So being the fastest doesn't necessarily make you the winner.
Six for Michael from Ireland! Michael's edging ahead, but the Swedish champion is right behind him.
Michael finished first, but what will the judges think? There's an agonising wait while the contestants' work is judged.
Johan is my biggest rival today, Johan from Sweden.
He's a world champion as well.
Oh, I don't know.
I just don't know.
They finally come to a decision and it's time to reveal the top two.
The silver medal, ladies and gentlemen .
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from Sweden! And this year's oyster opening competition winner is Michael Moran! Yes! Yes! Michael's won it in style.
Not only did he open in the fastest time, but he also had the best presentation, making him the undisputed champion of the world.
Brilliant.
I mean, this is just as good as it gets.
I'm so happy.
Well done.
Thank you.
Thank you.
Thank you.
Thanks a million.
Thank you.
Well done.
This is brilliant.
I'll never forget this for the rest of my life.
This is amazing.
For Michael, years of practice has paid off.
Now it's time to get the party started.
We're bringing it back to Sweden next year, I promise.
Game's on, baby.
Game's on.
Well done, Michael.
You've made Ireland proud.
More good times to be had after the break.
The Irish weather may be temperamental at best, but it gives birth to a beautiful landscape full of colour and drama.
Ireland is often described as 'the land of 40 shades of green'.
Johnny Cash even wrote a song about it.
So far today, I've counted only seven but there's plenty more time.
Whether the seas around here are calm or tempestuous, they remain a constant part of day to day life.
They've not only shaped these cliffs but also the lives of the people for thousands of years.
One person whose life is entwined with this majestic coastline is former pro surfer John McCarthy.
There's the sun.
The surf is up.
Time to go surfing.
John's spent 20 years chasing waves all over the world, but Ireland is now a top surf destination and that's what enticed him to Lahinch in County Clare where he runs his own surf school.
How's it going? All good? Sweet.
Did you have a good time? Yow! Let me take one of these boards.
But it's not all about teaching, because the surf conditions have come together to create something pretty special - the opportunity to surf off one of Ireland's most famous attractions, the Cliffs of Moher.
Autumn is often described as the surf season, as the water temperature is still warm from the summer and hurricane swells can produce big waves up to 50 feet high.
John plans to surf Aill Na Searrach - or Aillens, as locals call it - but first it's time to check out the conditions.
Whoa! Yee-ha! Wow.
I like that.
If you get a day with a big wave, the perfect wave, you could get the famous big wave surfers to come from South Africa, California, Hawaii, Australia.
They will all travel just to surf here.
Amazing.
It's a long way down and John's friend Dave has come along for the craic.
It's nice.
The light's coming onto it, isn't it? The swells aren't massive, but as a start to the big wave season, they'll do.
Ireland is home to approximately 50,000 surfers, so when conditions like this come along, expect a crowd.
And the word's out.
Surf's up.
Absolutely stoked.
It's great.
I think we surfed for seven hours, which I haven't done since I was 15.
Today more than ever before, the oceans that surround Ireland are a vital lifeline.
From the fishing industry, to the freighters that bring in the goods that keep the country alive, to the ferries that carry thousands of passengers in and out every day.
At the heart of this operation are the ports and the biggest of these is Dublin.
The port is an integral part of the city.
50% of all the goods that move in and out of Ireland pass through these waters.
But this weekend, it faces a whole new challenge as Dublin becomes the final destination for this year's round the world Tall Ships Race.
40 of the world's largest and finest tall ships are all set to converge on the city, as well as a million people all looking for the craic.
The Tall Ships Race has been wowing crowds over the globe since 1956.
And over the years, its popularity has only increased.
The event has been months in the planning and aside from the tall ships, there's live music from all around the world and cooking demonstrations from local artisan chefs.
What's important is using organic and really high quality ingredients.
But while most people are soaking up the atmosphere of the festival, for Harbour Master David Dingham, this is the busiest time of the year.
We have to try and fit in the tall ships in with all the various commercial shipping that's going on as well.
He has the unenviable task of controlling all marine traffic heading in and out of the port.
And with 17,000 ship movements a year, this is no easy task.
A lot of the vessels that come in are in party mode, whereas we have to stay in work mode.
The last ship to arrive into port today is also the most difficult to manoeuvre.
The Amerigo Vespucci is the pride of the Italian Navy.
She was built in 1931 and is their oldest ship in commission.
With a permanent crew of 270 and at over 102 metres in length, getting her up into the heart of Dublin isn't easy.
So we've had to look at all our measurements and make sure they're all right.
There'll be a lot of egg on face if it didn't fit.
The responsibility of getting the ship up the Liffey and safely docked falls to Dublin Port pilot Richie Kerfoot.
The pilot will advise the master of the ship on how best he should bring a ship into the port.
Without them, a lot of ships could not come in and out of the port.
A beautiful looking ship.
As they used to say years ago, when the ships were made of wood, the men were made of steel.
But now the ships are made of steel and the men are made of wood.
She's halfway up the river, but it's a tense moment as she approaches the bridge.
Take her to the south at all.
They're through, but it's a tight squeeze.
After navigating her up the river safely, it takes two tugs and 12 minutes of gentle manoeuvring to get safely docked.
Guiding the pride of the Italian Navy up a relatively shallow river seems like a pretty stressful job to me.
It's been a tense couple of hours, but for Richie, it's all in a day's work.
And with the Amerigo Vespucci safely in dock, the Italian crew can start their party.
It's been a happy, great occasion and it all went well and according to plan, so I can now breathe a sigh of relief.
From the tall ships of Dublin to the iconic majesty of the Giant's Causeway.
Both good days out whatever the weather.
What I love about the Causeway is that it isn't all fenced off, that everyone's got access to it.
It leaves it unspoiled, but also it just means you can get right in here.
Yeah, one of the things we love to let people do is get up on the rocks and see them up close themselves.
On a day like today, the Atlantic really is crashing in there.
It writes its own story, doesn't it? Definitely, yeah.
Part of Joe's job is making sure the 600,000 visitors enjoy the view safely.
You don't want to be at the mercy of that wild sea, do you? On the Causeway here, we have four safely lines and they're just lines in case someone goes in.
But part of our job is to go and make sure that they're in place.
Great.
Well, let's do it.
I hope I don't go in at the same time.
They're just here to throw in in case someone goes in.
And you can see how close we are to the water's edge.
Sometimes you do get big waves breaking up and over.
I'd say you wouldn't last long out there.
No, definitely not.
So what's people's reaction to the stones? A good few people, when they arrive, don't believe this formed naturally.
They think the stones are manmade? I've heard mad theories about it being an old castle remain and I've even had madder theories saying aliens built it thousands of years ago.
Tell me while we're here, the legend of Finn McCool.
The story goes that our giant Finn would stand on these cliffs here and he'd look over to Scotland and see his rival giant looking back.
Finn challenged him to a fight.
So be built a bridge to Scotland, but when he got to Scotland, he saw the size of Benandonner.
Benandonner was twice the size of Finn, so Finn panicked and ran back to Ireland.
The first person he met coming back was his wife Oonagh.
She dressed him up as a baby, threw him in the crib.
When Benandonner arrived, he couldn't find Finn anywhere but Oonagh invited him in for a cup of tea and he saw the size of the baby and said, 'Whose baby's that?' Oonagh said, 'That's Finn's baby, Oisin.
' Benandonner thought to himself, 'If that's the size of the baby, how big's the dad gonna be? And he ran back to Scotland.
Very good.
I like to believe that's true.
Whether you believe it was created by aliens, giants or simple geology, the Giant's Causeway really is a truly magical place, even on a day like today.
From our history, to how we play, and even the foods we love .
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the seas that surround Ireland have shaped it and its people, too.
It's a magical place and it's my home.

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