Rick Steves' Europe (2000) s05e07 Episode Script
The Czech Republic Beyond Prague
1 Hi, Iâm Rick Steves, back with more of the Best of Europe.
This time weâre soaking up the offbeat delights of the Czech Republic.
Thanks for joining us! To get a fair look at any country, you need to venture beyond its dominant city.
Here in the Czech Republic thereâs a world of cultural riches outside of Pragueâ and in this episode, thatâs our focus.
Weâll discover stately squares with no tourists⦠eat stinky cheese⦠and wash it down with Europeâs best beer.
ââ¦stinkiest cheese in the whole country.
â See the trophies of a bored yet trigger-happy prince⦠and learn of an evil Nazi hoax.
Then weâll follow the epic story of the Czech nation on canvas⦠paddle through the bohemian countryside⦠and delight in a fairytale town⦠that comes complete with jaunty Gypsy music.
Buried in the heart of central Europe is the Czech Republic.
Skipping Prague, the capital, we start in Olomouc in Moravia, before visiting Moravský Krumlov TÅeboÅ, TerezÃn, KonopiÅ¡tÄ, and Äeský Krumlov.
As Europe unifies into one vast free trade zone, itâs employing its own kind of internal Marshall Plan, investing hundreds of billions of dollars into its own infrastructure.
Here in the Czech Republic theyâve got a new express train zipping you in less than two hours from Prague to here⦠Olomouc.
Its circa-1950s train station is a fascinating blend of old and new: Bright and happy workers put down their hammers and sickles long enough to greet youâ reminder of the countryâs recent communist past.
Just a short tram ride from the station gets us to the old town center.
Olomouc, the historic capital of this region, With its wealth of cafes, clubs, and student life, Olomouc gives you vibrant local culture without the tourist crowds and high prices of Prague.
Iâm joined by my Czech friend and co-author of my Czech republic guidebook, Honza Vihan.
So, Moravia, is that a political unit⦠or an ethnic region? Moravia is a region⦠in the eastern part of the Czech Republic.
And how would you describe the Moravian people? Well, to generalize, the Moravians are more emotional and friendlier⦠than the people in the western part of the country.
Steves: the fortune and misfortune of Olomouc⦠comes from its strategic location⦠at the intersection of central Europeâs⦠main east-west and north-south⦠trade routes.
The cityâs historic core is simply workaday Moravia.
Trams clatter through the streets⦠as they have for a century.
The townâs economy is lively, even without much tourism.
Standing in front of the town hall, surrounded by the vast square⦠and its fine noble and bourgeois residences, you can imagine the importance of Olomouc in centuries past.
The people here are proud, as if their fine city was still ruling Moravia, which it hasnât done since about 1640.
locals brag that their city is home⦠to the countryâs second-most-important bishop⦠and its second-most-important university.
Perennially number two, Olomouc actually built its bell tower⦠to be six feet taller than Pragueâs.
But, when it comes to plague monuments, Olomouc is unrivaled.
This baby is the tallest and most grandiose anywhere.
Throughout central Europe, squares like this are decorated with similar structures⦠erected by locals to give thanks for surviving the plague.
The tip of the column features the Holy Trinityâ God, the father, making a blessing, Christ, sitting on a globe, and the dove, representing the Holy Spirit.
Tumbling below the Trinity, the archangel, Michael, with his ever-ready sword and shield, reminds us that the church⦠is in a constant struggle with evil.
It all sits upon a tiny chapel⦠where, on the date the column was inaugurated in 1754, the mighty Habsburg empress, Maria Theresa, who traveled all the way from Vienna, knelt to pray, devout yet envious.
Proud little Olomouc, way out here in Moravia, had a plague column grander than Viennaâs.
A series of allegorical fountains⦠decorate the old town.
Most were inspired by classical mythology.
This one, featuring Julius Caesar, is dedicated to the legendary founder of the town.
The modern turtle fountain is a popular⦠meeting place for young mothers⦠and a fine place to watch toddlers enjoy the art.
This astronomical clock was destroyed⦠by the Nazis in World War II.
Todayâs version was rebuilt in 1953 by the communists⦠with their kitschy flair for propaganda.
In good social realist style, you have earnest chemists⦠and heroic mothers rather than holy saints and Virgin Maries.
In this region, so rich in agriculture, these symbols of the 12 months each feature a seasonal farm activity.
High noon is marked by a proletarian parade, when a mechanical conga line of milkmaids, clerks, blacksmiths, teachers, and first defenders are celebrated⦠as the champions of everyday society.
[ melodic chiming .]
As with any full-service astronomical clock, thereâs a wheel with 365 saints⦠so youâll always know whose special day it is.
And this clock comes with a Moscow-inspired bonus.
Red bands splice in the special days of communist heroes.
Lenin died on the 21st day of the year.
Stalinâs saint was Thomas, day 355.
[ melodic chiming .]
We canât leave Olomouc without experiencing⦠one of the cityâs greatest attractionsâ its notoriously stinky cheese.
So, we all know about the great Czech beer, but whatâs with this famous cheese from Moravia? Oh, the olomoucke tvaruzky? Well, itâs the stinkiest cheese in the whole country.
Really? And if there is one thing you associate with Olomouc, itâs this cheese.
My mom, who comes from this region, when i was a kid, when she would start eating this at home, me and my dad, we just clear out the kitchen.
So the thing that makes this cheese is the way it ages.
It ages on an aged meat, so the meat itself has to be aged to age this cheese.
And then you have to age in order to learn to like this cheese.
And what are you putting on it? Thatâs young onion.
Young, strong onion.
Whyâs that important? Itâs good for you as a man.
[ laughs .]
Stinks, but itâs good.
And what is this? This is a really strong mint⦠so you can go and kiss your wife when you go home.
[ laughs .]
30 miles south of Prague is KonopiÅ¡tÄ, the lavish residence of the Archduke Franz Ferdinand.
Its interior dates from about 1900⦠when the heir of the Habsburg throne, Franz Ferdinand, moved in.
Against the wishes of his uncle, Emperor Franz Josef, Franz Ferdinand married a Czech countess, Sophie.
To escape family problems back in Vienna, he purchased KonopiÅ¡tÄ and moved here⦠to raise their three children and wait his turn to be emperor.
Money was no object⦠as Franz Ferdinand turned his castle⦠into a palace with all the latest comforts.
As one of the first castles in europe to have an elevator, a shower with hot and cold running water⦠and even a new-fangled flush toilet, KonopiÅ¡tÄ shows modern living around the year 1900.
the archduke had lots of time on his hands⦠as his uncle, Emperor Franz Josef, held onto power from 1848 all the way until 1916.
while he waited, Franz Ferdinand amassed one of⦠the best collections of arms and armor in the entire world.
The exhibit, mostly Italian from the 16th to the 18th centuries, raises weaponry to an art form.
And for Franz Ferdinand, guns were more than showpieces.
Obsessed with hunting, he traveled⦠around the world, shooting at anything with four legsâdeer, bear, tigers, elephants, and this Polish buffalo.
He actually recorded over 200,000 kills in his log.
Keep in mind, royal hunting was a kind of massacre game, with his aids sweeping⦠doomed animals into the archdukeâs eager sights.
Over 4,000 trophies decorate the walls and halls of his castle.
Franz Ferdinand did more than his share of shooting, but in 1914, he himself was shot, along with his beloved wife, Sophie, in Sarajevo.
His assassination sparked World War I, which ultimately ended the rule of the Habsburg family, whose crown he had waited so long to inherit.
Another site near Prague is TerezÃn, a town built in the 1780s with state-of-the-art walls designed to keep out German enemies.
In 1941, the Nazis evict its 7,000 inhabitants⦠and packed in 60,000 Jews, creating the TerezÃn concentration camp.
The townâs historic walls, originally meant to keep Germans out, were now used by Germans to keep the Jews in.
But this was a concentration camp⦠with a devious twist.
This was the Naziâs model Jewish town.
In reality, a concentration camp, dolled up for propaganda purposes.
Here in what they called⦠âthe self-governing Jewish resettlement area,â Jewish culture seemed to thrive⦠as citizens put on plays and concerts, published a magazine, and raised their families⦠in ways that impressed Red Cross inspectors.
The Germans wanted the Jews to accept this new realityâ harsh, but at least life would go on.
Children made dolls of their friends in transport, as if relocating⦠was just the start of the next stage of their lives.
They drew care-free memories of life before incarceration, and they made scrapbooks about life in the camp.
The museum comes with a recreated barracks furnished with actual belongings⦠of TerezÃn inmates.
sinks were installed, looking good⦠for human rights abuse inspectors⦠from the outside world, but never actually plumbed with water.
Group showers became a routine part of life here.
The fatal last shower⦠many TerezÃn residents would later take at Auschwitz⦠looked no different, except there were no windows.
Tolerable as this sham Jewish town seemed, virtually all of TerezÃnâs jews⦠ultimately ended up dying either here⦠or at the extermination camps further east.
As you explore the camp, ponder the message of all such memorialsâ âForgive, but never forget.
â Today, the Czech Republic, independent and enjoying an unprecedented prosperity, is dotted with plain and sleepy towns.
These nondescript workaday places go about life, oblivious to modern tourism.
But one particularly ugly town hides an artistic pearl.
Moravský Krumlov has only one real restaurant, and shops shut down by 5:00.
The concrete ugliness of the circa-1950s main square, rebuilt after the town⦠was bombed out by Russians in World War II, feels a world apart from the rest of the country.
But thereâs one good reason to visit Moravský Krumlovâ discovering âthe Slavic Epicâ by the Czech Republicâs greatest painter, Alfons Mucha.
His masterpiece is tucked away in the townâs decaying castle.
Around 1900, Mucha made a hugely successful⦠commercial career for himself⦠as the Art Nouveau poster artist⦠and illustrator of ads and magazine covers.
His specialtyâ pretty women with flowers, portraits of rich wives, and swanky models celebrating the good life.
But he grew tired of commercial art.
Mucha dedicated the second half of his career, 18 years, to painting âthe Slavic Epic,â 20 huge canvases designed to tell the story of his nation⦠on a grand scale.
The art fills this humble space⦠only until a suitable home can be found in Prague.
In this self-portrait, young Mucha is the seer, a conduit, determined to share wisdom of a sage Slav with his fellow Czechs.
Mucha paints a brotherhood of Slavic peopleâ Serbs, Russians, Poles, and Czechs, who share a common heritage, deep roots, a hard-fought past, and ultimate triumph.
Through this series of epic events, Czechs can trace their ethnic roots.
Mucha, with his romantic nationalist vision, shows how, through the ages, Goths and Germanic people⦠have brought terror and destruction to the Slavs, the Slavs, whose pagan roots⦠are woven deep into their national character.
The establishment of the Orthodox Christian faith⦠provided a common thread for Slavic peoples.
To maintain their identity, they stood up to the Roman Church⦠with courageous religious leaders⦠boldly confronting Vatican officials.
The printing of the Bible in the Czech language⦠was a cultural milestone.
Then, they endured three centuries of darkness⦠during the time Czechs were ruled by the Catholic Austrians.
Muchaâs final canvas shows the ultimate triumph⦠of the Czech people, as, in the 20th century, they joined a family of nations⦠with their Czech ethnicity intact.
âThe Slavic Epic.
â A short drive takes us to another popular stop, TÅeboÅ.
Itâs venerable square is lined with playful arcades, artfully blending⦠both Renaissance and Baroque building styles.
The town was built by 17th-century businessmen⦠whose wealth came from fish farming.
from one of the outdoor cafes, you can watch the parade of local life⦠in the shadow of another plague monument.
The bank sports a relief⦠extolling the virtue of working hard⦠and stowing your money right here, and a happy fisherman cradles the historic and wiggly, source of this townâs wealth.
Centuries ago, the lake builders of TÅeboÅ employed ingenious techniques.
They transformed what was a flooding marshland into a clever and delightful⦠combination of lakes, oak-lined dikes⦠and fertile meadows.
Rather than unprofitable soggy fields, the nobles wanted ponds, swarming with fish.
Today, five centuries later, TÅeboÅ remains⦠the fish-raising capital of the Czech Republic.
16th-century landscape architects⦠struck an amazing balance⦠between civilization and nature, which today is a protected ecosystem.
Nature enthusiasts visit to bird-watch, bike along dykes held together by roots of centuries-old oaks, and, of course, catch a few fish.
TÅeboÅâs other claim to fame, its peat spa.
Patients come, mostly on their doctorsâ orders, and therefore covered by the national healthcare system, for week-long stays, and gawky tourists can line up for a soak, too.
With clinical efficiency⦠âRick Steves?â Iâm suddenly part of the system, like it or not.
Soaking in the black, smelly peat sludge⦠is thought to cure aching joints and spines.
Weâll see about that.
The treatment continues⦠with a cursory hose-down.
Itâs capper, a no-nonsense massage, gives a relaxing opportunity to judge⦠the power of peat.
Moving on, we enter the region of Bohemia.
This part of the Czech Republic, closest to Germany, is much-appreciated for its pastoral countryside, and floating a few hours down the Vltava river⦠through Bohemian forests and villages, you see why.
Families and gangs of friends enjoy multi-day river trips.
These guys arenât letting a little rain⦠dampen their spirits.
Anyone passing through can rent a canoe⦠and enjoy a paddle, short or long.
Float companies pick you up and drop you⦠at convenient and scenic spots of your choice.
Going with the flow takes you⦠to my favorite stop in the Czech countryside⦠outside of Prague, Äeský Krumlov.
The enchanting town of Äeský Krumlov, buried in the hills of Bohemia, lassooed by its river, and dominated by its castle, feels lost in a time warp.
Its delightful old town of shops and cobbled lanes, characteristic little restaurants, and easy-going canoeing options⦠makes it a favorite with tourists.
And thereâs no shortage of accommodations.
Our home is the Castleview Apartments.
Plush and thoughtfully-equipped, my room is typical of the work locals are doing, as even medieval lofts are being renovated⦠to meet the needs of the growing number of visitors.
Open beams, a handy kitchenette, and, as its name promises, a castle view, make this a fine temporary home.
With a natural moat provided by the Vltava river, itâs no wonder this place has been a choice spot for ages.
The 16th century was the townâs golden age⦠when Äeský Krumlov was a cultural power, hosting artists, scientists, and alchemists⦠from all over Europe.
The townâs many tourists set their sights on the mighty castle of the Rosenberg family.
For three centuries, until about 1600, the Rosenbergs, Bohemiaâs top noble family, ran the city from this perch.
Its 16th-century Renaissance paint job⦠is fancifully restored.
Visitors wait their appointed time⦠for a tour in the castle courtyard.
The interior gives a glimpse of the ultimate⦠in Bohemian noble living through the ages.
Imagine being a guest, back in the 16th century, of this man, Count Rosenberg.
Youâd enjoy the scenes frescoed here⦠which celebrate a Rosenberg family wedding.
Then, riding his assembly line of fine living, youâd dine here.
Come back two centuries later, and youâd dine here.
And, if the countess tired of your company, sheâd retire to her adjacent bedroom, but only after a servant⦠lit the candles on her Meissen porcelain chandelier.
And of course, the party would go on, perhaps with a Venetian-style masquerade party⦠in the ballroom.
For a little fresh air, youâd hike down this corridor 150 yards⦠to the countâs formal garden.
But donât forget, at 8:00 p.
m.
, the candles would be lit⦠for a play in the Baroque theater.
Europe once had several hundred fine Baroque theaters like this.
Using candles and oil lamps for light⦠and pyrotechnics for special effects, eventually, most of them burned down.
Today, only four survive that are in beautiful shape⦠and open to the public, like this one here at Krumlov Castle.
[ whirring .]
Baroque theater was all about melodrama.
Lighting, perspective, and sound effects⦠were all melodramatic.
Even the weather was thrilling, with machines to make horrifying wind⦠[ whirring .]
[ rough whirring .]
a driving rainstorm⦠[ rough whirring .]
[ rumbling .]
and menacing thunder.
Even back then, it was all about special effects.
Tonight, the liveliest place in town⦠is the local gypsy barâ good food and lively music.
The easiest way for a traveler to experience the traditional⦠Gypsy, or Roma, culture, is through its musicâ always crowd-pleasing and fiery.
How many Roma are there in the world? About 12 million Romas, mainly in central and eastern Europe.
12 million? Itâs more than the Czechs or Austrians.
Where did they come from? The Romas came to Europe⦠in the middle ages from India.
Theyâve long been persecuted.
Hitler targeted them just like the jews, the communists put an end to their nomadic ways, and they tried to forcefully assimilate them, which had catastrophic results for the Roma culture.
So where does that leave them today? Well, the Roma culture is falling apart.
Most of the people donât even speak the Roma language, and itâs rare to find young Roma musicians⦠keeping all the traditions alive.
The real test for society⦠to learn to respect each other and live together.
We have a long way to go.
[ music playing .]
And judging by the way⦠music is bridging cultural barriers here tonight, Thereâs reason for hope.
[ music playing .]
[ cheers and applause .]
Thanks for joining us.
I hope youâve enjoyed our look at the highlights, beyond its capital, of the Czech Republic.
Iâm Rick Steves.
Until next time, keep on traveling.
This time weâre soaking up the offbeat delights of the Czech Republic.
Thanks for joining us! To get a fair look at any country, you need to venture beyond its dominant city.
Here in the Czech Republic thereâs a world of cultural riches outside of Pragueâ and in this episode, thatâs our focus.
Weâll discover stately squares with no tourists⦠eat stinky cheese⦠and wash it down with Europeâs best beer.
ââ¦stinkiest cheese in the whole country.
â See the trophies of a bored yet trigger-happy prince⦠and learn of an evil Nazi hoax.
Then weâll follow the epic story of the Czech nation on canvas⦠paddle through the bohemian countryside⦠and delight in a fairytale town⦠that comes complete with jaunty Gypsy music.
Buried in the heart of central Europe is the Czech Republic.
Skipping Prague, the capital, we start in Olomouc in Moravia, before visiting Moravský Krumlov TÅeboÅ, TerezÃn, KonopiÅ¡tÄ, and Äeský Krumlov.
As Europe unifies into one vast free trade zone, itâs employing its own kind of internal Marshall Plan, investing hundreds of billions of dollars into its own infrastructure.
Here in the Czech Republic theyâve got a new express train zipping you in less than two hours from Prague to here⦠Olomouc.
Its circa-1950s train station is a fascinating blend of old and new: Bright and happy workers put down their hammers and sickles long enough to greet youâ reminder of the countryâs recent communist past.
Just a short tram ride from the station gets us to the old town center.
Olomouc, the historic capital of this region, With its wealth of cafes, clubs, and student life, Olomouc gives you vibrant local culture without the tourist crowds and high prices of Prague.
Iâm joined by my Czech friend and co-author of my Czech republic guidebook, Honza Vihan.
So, Moravia, is that a political unit⦠or an ethnic region? Moravia is a region⦠in the eastern part of the Czech Republic.
And how would you describe the Moravian people? Well, to generalize, the Moravians are more emotional and friendlier⦠than the people in the western part of the country.
Steves: the fortune and misfortune of Olomouc⦠comes from its strategic location⦠at the intersection of central Europeâs⦠main east-west and north-south⦠trade routes.
The cityâs historic core is simply workaday Moravia.
Trams clatter through the streets⦠as they have for a century.
The townâs economy is lively, even without much tourism.
Standing in front of the town hall, surrounded by the vast square⦠and its fine noble and bourgeois residences, you can imagine the importance of Olomouc in centuries past.
The people here are proud, as if their fine city was still ruling Moravia, which it hasnât done since about 1640.
locals brag that their city is home⦠to the countryâs second-most-important bishop⦠and its second-most-important university.
Perennially number two, Olomouc actually built its bell tower⦠to be six feet taller than Pragueâs.
But, when it comes to plague monuments, Olomouc is unrivaled.
This baby is the tallest and most grandiose anywhere.
Throughout central Europe, squares like this are decorated with similar structures⦠erected by locals to give thanks for surviving the plague.
The tip of the column features the Holy Trinityâ God, the father, making a blessing, Christ, sitting on a globe, and the dove, representing the Holy Spirit.
Tumbling below the Trinity, the archangel, Michael, with his ever-ready sword and shield, reminds us that the church⦠is in a constant struggle with evil.
It all sits upon a tiny chapel⦠where, on the date the column was inaugurated in 1754, the mighty Habsburg empress, Maria Theresa, who traveled all the way from Vienna, knelt to pray, devout yet envious.
Proud little Olomouc, way out here in Moravia, had a plague column grander than Viennaâs.
A series of allegorical fountains⦠decorate the old town.
Most were inspired by classical mythology.
This one, featuring Julius Caesar, is dedicated to the legendary founder of the town.
The modern turtle fountain is a popular⦠meeting place for young mothers⦠and a fine place to watch toddlers enjoy the art.
This astronomical clock was destroyed⦠by the Nazis in World War II.
Todayâs version was rebuilt in 1953 by the communists⦠with their kitschy flair for propaganda.
In good social realist style, you have earnest chemists⦠and heroic mothers rather than holy saints and Virgin Maries.
In this region, so rich in agriculture, these symbols of the 12 months each feature a seasonal farm activity.
High noon is marked by a proletarian parade, when a mechanical conga line of milkmaids, clerks, blacksmiths, teachers, and first defenders are celebrated⦠as the champions of everyday society.
[ melodic chiming .]
As with any full-service astronomical clock, thereâs a wheel with 365 saints⦠so youâll always know whose special day it is.
And this clock comes with a Moscow-inspired bonus.
Red bands splice in the special days of communist heroes.
Lenin died on the 21st day of the year.
Stalinâs saint was Thomas, day 355.
[ melodic chiming .]
We canât leave Olomouc without experiencing⦠one of the cityâs greatest attractionsâ its notoriously stinky cheese.
So, we all know about the great Czech beer, but whatâs with this famous cheese from Moravia? Oh, the olomoucke tvaruzky? Well, itâs the stinkiest cheese in the whole country.
Really? And if there is one thing you associate with Olomouc, itâs this cheese.
My mom, who comes from this region, when i was a kid, when she would start eating this at home, me and my dad, we just clear out the kitchen.
So the thing that makes this cheese is the way it ages.
It ages on an aged meat, so the meat itself has to be aged to age this cheese.
And then you have to age in order to learn to like this cheese.
And what are you putting on it? Thatâs young onion.
Young, strong onion.
Whyâs that important? Itâs good for you as a man.
[ laughs .]
Stinks, but itâs good.
And what is this? This is a really strong mint⦠so you can go and kiss your wife when you go home.
[ laughs .]
30 miles south of Prague is KonopiÅ¡tÄ, the lavish residence of the Archduke Franz Ferdinand.
Its interior dates from about 1900⦠when the heir of the Habsburg throne, Franz Ferdinand, moved in.
Against the wishes of his uncle, Emperor Franz Josef, Franz Ferdinand married a Czech countess, Sophie.
To escape family problems back in Vienna, he purchased KonopiÅ¡tÄ and moved here⦠to raise their three children and wait his turn to be emperor.
Money was no object⦠as Franz Ferdinand turned his castle⦠into a palace with all the latest comforts.
As one of the first castles in europe to have an elevator, a shower with hot and cold running water⦠and even a new-fangled flush toilet, KonopiÅ¡tÄ shows modern living around the year 1900.
the archduke had lots of time on his hands⦠as his uncle, Emperor Franz Josef, held onto power from 1848 all the way until 1916.
while he waited, Franz Ferdinand amassed one of⦠the best collections of arms and armor in the entire world.
The exhibit, mostly Italian from the 16th to the 18th centuries, raises weaponry to an art form.
And for Franz Ferdinand, guns were more than showpieces.
Obsessed with hunting, he traveled⦠around the world, shooting at anything with four legsâdeer, bear, tigers, elephants, and this Polish buffalo.
He actually recorded over 200,000 kills in his log.
Keep in mind, royal hunting was a kind of massacre game, with his aids sweeping⦠doomed animals into the archdukeâs eager sights.
Over 4,000 trophies decorate the walls and halls of his castle.
Franz Ferdinand did more than his share of shooting, but in 1914, he himself was shot, along with his beloved wife, Sophie, in Sarajevo.
His assassination sparked World War I, which ultimately ended the rule of the Habsburg family, whose crown he had waited so long to inherit.
Another site near Prague is TerezÃn, a town built in the 1780s with state-of-the-art walls designed to keep out German enemies.
In 1941, the Nazis evict its 7,000 inhabitants⦠and packed in 60,000 Jews, creating the TerezÃn concentration camp.
The townâs historic walls, originally meant to keep Germans out, were now used by Germans to keep the Jews in.
But this was a concentration camp⦠with a devious twist.
This was the Naziâs model Jewish town.
In reality, a concentration camp, dolled up for propaganda purposes.
Here in what they called⦠âthe self-governing Jewish resettlement area,â Jewish culture seemed to thrive⦠as citizens put on plays and concerts, published a magazine, and raised their families⦠in ways that impressed Red Cross inspectors.
The Germans wanted the Jews to accept this new realityâ harsh, but at least life would go on.
Children made dolls of their friends in transport, as if relocating⦠was just the start of the next stage of their lives.
They drew care-free memories of life before incarceration, and they made scrapbooks about life in the camp.
The museum comes with a recreated barracks furnished with actual belongings⦠of TerezÃn inmates.
sinks were installed, looking good⦠for human rights abuse inspectors⦠from the outside world, but never actually plumbed with water.
Group showers became a routine part of life here.
The fatal last shower⦠many TerezÃn residents would later take at Auschwitz⦠looked no different, except there were no windows.
Tolerable as this sham Jewish town seemed, virtually all of TerezÃnâs jews⦠ultimately ended up dying either here⦠or at the extermination camps further east.
As you explore the camp, ponder the message of all such memorialsâ âForgive, but never forget.
â Today, the Czech Republic, independent and enjoying an unprecedented prosperity, is dotted with plain and sleepy towns.
These nondescript workaday places go about life, oblivious to modern tourism.
But one particularly ugly town hides an artistic pearl.
Moravský Krumlov has only one real restaurant, and shops shut down by 5:00.
The concrete ugliness of the circa-1950s main square, rebuilt after the town⦠was bombed out by Russians in World War II, feels a world apart from the rest of the country.
But thereâs one good reason to visit Moravský Krumlovâ discovering âthe Slavic Epicâ by the Czech Republicâs greatest painter, Alfons Mucha.
His masterpiece is tucked away in the townâs decaying castle.
Around 1900, Mucha made a hugely successful⦠commercial career for himself⦠as the Art Nouveau poster artist⦠and illustrator of ads and magazine covers.
His specialtyâ pretty women with flowers, portraits of rich wives, and swanky models celebrating the good life.
But he grew tired of commercial art.
Mucha dedicated the second half of his career, 18 years, to painting âthe Slavic Epic,â 20 huge canvases designed to tell the story of his nation⦠on a grand scale.
The art fills this humble space⦠only until a suitable home can be found in Prague.
In this self-portrait, young Mucha is the seer, a conduit, determined to share wisdom of a sage Slav with his fellow Czechs.
Mucha paints a brotherhood of Slavic peopleâ Serbs, Russians, Poles, and Czechs, who share a common heritage, deep roots, a hard-fought past, and ultimate triumph.
Through this series of epic events, Czechs can trace their ethnic roots.
Mucha, with his romantic nationalist vision, shows how, through the ages, Goths and Germanic people⦠have brought terror and destruction to the Slavs, the Slavs, whose pagan roots⦠are woven deep into their national character.
The establishment of the Orthodox Christian faith⦠provided a common thread for Slavic peoples.
To maintain their identity, they stood up to the Roman Church⦠with courageous religious leaders⦠boldly confronting Vatican officials.
The printing of the Bible in the Czech language⦠was a cultural milestone.
Then, they endured three centuries of darkness⦠during the time Czechs were ruled by the Catholic Austrians.
Muchaâs final canvas shows the ultimate triumph⦠of the Czech people, as, in the 20th century, they joined a family of nations⦠with their Czech ethnicity intact.
âThe Slavic Epic.
â A short drive takes us to another popular stop, TÅeboÅ.
Itâs venerable square is lined with playful arcades, artfully blending⦠both Renaissance and Baroque building styles.
The town was built by 17th-century businessmen⦠whose wealth came from fish farming.
from one of the outdoor cafes, you can watch the parade of local life⦠in the shadow of another plague monument.
The bank sports a relief⦠extolling the virtue of working hard⦠and stowing your money right here, and a happy fisherman cradles the historic and wiggly, source of this townâs wealth.
Centuries ago, the lake builders of TÅeboÅ employed ingenious techniques.
They transformed what was a flooding marshland into a clever and delightful⦠combination of lakes, oak-lined dikes⦠and fertile meadows.
Rather than unprofitable soggy fields, the nobles wanted ponds, swarming with fish.
Today, five centuries later, TÅeboÅ remains⦠the fish-raising capital of the Czech Republic.
16th-century landscape architects⦠struck an amazing balance⦠between civilization and nature, which today is a protected ecosystem.
Nature enthusiasts visit to bird-watch, bike along dykes held together by roots of centuries-old oaks, and, of course, catch a few fish.
TÅeboÅâs other claim to fame, its peat spa.
Patients come, mostly on their doctorsâ orders, and therefore covered by the national healthcare system, for week-long stays, and gawky tourists can line up for a soak, too.
With clinical efficiency⦠âRick Steves?â Iâm suddenly part of the system, like it or not.
Soaking in the black, smelly peat sludge⦠is thought to cure aching joints and spines.
Weâll see about that.
The treatment continues⦠with a cursory hose-down.
Itâs capper, a no-nonsense massage, gives a relaxing opportunity to judge⦠the power of peat.
Moving on, we enter the region of Bohemia.
This part of the Czech Republic, closest to Germany, is much-appreciated for its pastoral countryside, and floating a few hours down the Vltava river⦠through Bohemian forests and villages, you see why.
Families and gangs of friends enjoy multi-day river trips.
These guys arenât letting a little rain⦠dampen their spirits.
Anyone passing through can rent a canoe⦠and enjoy a paddle, short or long.
Float companies pick you up and drop you⦠at convenient and scenic spots of your choice.
Going with the flow takes you⦠to my favorite stop in the Czech countryside⦠outside of Prague, Äeský Krumlov.
The enchanting town of Äeský Krumlov, buried in the hills of Bohemia, lassooed by its river, and dominated by its castle, feels lost in a time warp.
Its delightful old town of shops and cobbled lanes, characteristic little restaurants, and easy-going canoeing options⦠makes it a favorite with tourists.
And thereâs no shortage of accommodations.
Our home is the Castleview Apartments.
Plush and thoughtfully-equipped, my room is typical of the work locals are doing, as even medieval lofts are being renovated⦠to meet the needs of the growing number of visitors.
Open beams, a handy kitchenette, and, as its name promises, a castle view, make this a fine temporary home.
With a natural moat provided by the Vltava river, itâs no wonder this place has been a choice spot for ages.
The 16th century was the townâs golden age⦠when Äeský Krumlov was a cultural power, hosting artists, scientists, and alchemists⦠from all over Europe.
The townâs many tourists set their sights on the mighty castle of the Rosenberg family.
For three centuries, until about 1600, the Rosenbergs, Bohemiaâs top noble family, ran the city from this perch.
Its 16th-century Renaissance paint job⦠is fancifully restored.
Visitors wait their appointed time⦠for a tour in the castle courtyard.
The interior gives a glimpse of the ultimate⦠in Bohemian noble living through the ages.
Imagine being a guest, back in the 16th century, of this man, Count Rosenberg.
Youâd enjoy the scenes frescoed here⦠which celebrate a Rosenberg family wedding.
Then, riding his assembly line of fine living, youâd dine here.
Come back two centuries later, and youâd dine here.
And, if the countess tired of your company, sheâd retire to her adjacent bedroom, but only after a servant⦠lit the candles on her Meissen porcelain chandelier.
And of course, the party would go on, perhaps with a Venetian-style masquerade party⦠in the ballroom.
For a little fresh air, youâd hike down this corridor 150 yards⦠to the countâs formal garden.
But donât forget, at 8:00 p.
m.
, the candles would be lit⦠for a play in the Baroque theater.
Europe once had several hundred fine Baroque theaters like this.
Using candles and oil lamps for light⦠and pyrotechnics for special effects, eventually, most of them burned down.
Today, only four survive that are in beautiful shape⦠and open to the public, like this one here at Krumlov Castle.
[ whirring .]
Baroque theater was all about melodrama.
Lighting, perspective, and sound effects⦠were all melodramatic.
Even the weather was thrilling, with machines to make horrifying wind⦠[ whirring .]
[ rough whirring .]
a driving rainstorm⦠[ rough whirring .]
[ rumbling .]
and menacing thunder.
Even back then, it was all about special effects.
Tonight, the liveliest place in town⦠is the local gypsy barâ good food and lively music.
The easiest way for a traveler to experience the traditional⦠Gypsy, or Roma, culture, is through its musicâ always crowd-pleasing and fiery.
How many Roma are there in the world? About 12 million Romas, mainly in central and eastern Europe.
12 million? Itâs more than the Czechs or Austrians.
Where did they come from? The Romas came to Europe⦠in the middle ages from India.
Theyâve long been persecuted.
Hitler targeted them just like the jews, the communists put an end to their nomadic ways, and they tried to forcefully assimilate them, which had catastrophic results for the Roma culture.
So where does that leave them today? Well, the Roma culture is falling apart.
Most of the people donât even speak the Roma language, and itâs rare to find young Roma musicians⦠keeping all the traditions alive.
The real test for society⦠to learn to respect each other and live together.
We have a long way to go.
[ music playing .]
And judging by the way⦠music is bridging cultural barriers here tonight, Thereâs reason for hope.
[ music playing .]
[ cheers and applause .]
Thanks for joining us.
I hope youâve enjoyed our look at the highlights, beyond its capital, of the Czech Republic.
Iâm Rick Steves.
Until next time, keep on traveling.