Ride with Norman Reedus (2016) s02e05 Episode Script

Hawaii: The Big Island

Sometimes in our collective consciousness There's a whale! A place can be reduced to a cliche I didn't expect Hawaii to look like this at all.
But often, the reality's nothing as it seems.
This is a land of sweeping contrast and impeccable beauty, perpetually being destroyed and created, but in many ways untouched by time.
This is the Big Island of Hawaii, one of the most remote, inhabited places in the world.
That is just stupid-pretty.
Arriving on the Big Island this wasn't exactly what I had in mind.
What I envisioned was a little more like this.
But let's be honest, that kind of schtick was never really my scene, which is what brought me to the Big Island.
It's so pretty out here.
These mountains in the background are so beautiful.
You know what I mean.
And the weather is perfect.
It's so beautiful here.
All right, let's hit it.
I made my first visit to these islands in 2010 to shoot the pilot for "Hawaii Five-0.
" I flew into Honolulu and got killed off and spent a few days playing tourist on the beaches of Oahu.
But this time I'm trading those tourist traps for a road less traveled.
When people think of Hawaii, they picture Waikiki and little do they know the Big Island is actually very unique.
For me, I think the Big Island is just so magical.
Big Island specifically, is probably one of the most amazing islands you'll ever find.
One day, you can go up to the mountain and play in the snow and by the end of the day, you can be down at the beach, eating your poke with some poi and some beers.
I don't ever want to live anyplace else.
Before heading out, I'm meeting up with my good friend, photographer Patrick Hoelck to load up on some local moco, the go-to comfort food for the locals.
Is that us? Yes.
I'll get it.
You got it? Is this the local, local thingie thing we want? Yes, it is.
Loco moco.
Patrick and I first met back in the '90s Look at this.
Crossing paths in New York and L.
He'd spent some time surfing in Oahu, but like me, he's never seen the Big Island up close.
And sometimes the best way to unmask an old friend is by taking a new journey.
I think I want to try soy sauce, if that's what you do.
It's just an egg, a burger, rice, and gravy.
Not bad.
It's good.
A renowned filmmaker and director, Patrick's also one of Hollywood's most sought-after photographers.
And you're so easy-going and it just felt like we were hanging out like we always do.
You must get stories while you do that, that you wouldn't normally get? Yeah, like when you talked about your dishwashing with the Clash songs with your mother.
We didn't have a washing machine, right, so we'd just do the dishes together, but she she, you know, had the old turntable and the big speakers and she would blast, you know, that song and sing it and she taught me the words.
I've known you forever and I've never heard that.
It took this thing to just It just came up.
Are you ready to get out of here? Done.
All right, let's roll.
Let's go explore.
Perfect weather.
Patrick, we're in Hawaii, man.
Over the next three days, we'll zigzag through this 4,000-square-mile island, using its main coastal beltway as our guide.
We'll pass through tropical rainforests, sun-soaked beaches, and snow-capped mountains, making stops wherever the road takes us before reaching our final destination, Kilauea Volcano.
How high is this volcano? I don't know, I don't know.
I wonder how long ago the last eruption was? I don't that it's It's running all the time, which is really cool.
I can't wait.
For the last 30 years, its eruptions have been reshaping the island.
It seems so untouched here.
I love it.
And I've heard that the only way to truly understand this place is to see it with your own eyes.
I love these rolling hills that go off into the ocean.
But when on a tropical island, my first inclination is always to hit the water.
Yeah, let's check it out.
Patrick? Look at that rainbow right there.
I've never seen one that clear, ever.
Let's get down here.
I want to see like, the full view.
We got to jump in that water.
When in Hawaii Do Hawaiian stuff? Yeah.
It's a double rainbow.
How pretty is this? The rainbow's just not going away.
Here, come here, let me get a picture of you with the rainbow.
I wonder if you could swim here? Yeah.
Good morning.
What you doing? This is like a little homemade fish scaler.
Just made out of beer caps.
That's interesting.
Did somebody teach you how to do that or you just make that up? It's been around for awhile.
Pretty much, this is it.
Clean it real good.
It's really pretty once you strip its skin off.
Nice to meet you.
Patrick, pleasure.
Nice to meet you.
What kind of fish do you catch here? All kind of reef fish.
You got like, unicorn fish.
Unicorn fish? Yeah.
Well, that's a unicorn fish right there.
These are beautiful.
Shut up.
Unicorn fish has a unicorn horn.
Do you spearfish to catch these? Yeah, I'm a free diver, so I don't use any tanks, I just I just hold my breath.
How long can you hold your breath for? Two, three minutes.
I don't think I've ever held my breath, ever.
I was just going to go do some snorkeling and I got extra gear if you guys want to jump in.
Do you wanna? I'm down.
Let's do it.
Wait, let me Let me fluff the package.
Hey, Calvin? You could pee in these, right, these suits? Just in case? Yeah! You see all those fish? Yeah.
You see how big that one is? That's your parrot fish, yeah.
Let's go deeper? Can we go deeper? There's a whale! Turn around! Yeah, turn your camera around, 'cause a whale jumped out of the water.
Should be right there.
Giant whale came out of the water and just went ka-plow! That was crazy.
That's cool, yeah.
That was That was Dutch.
If you guys want to come up and eat fish, we're going to cook some fish on the grill.
Hell, yeah.
Let's do it.
We did it! That was dope.
That whale was crazy.
It was huge.
Yeah, it was I mean, it was like, whale size, you know what I mean? The easy way is to pull down over your elbows.
That was awesome! How's it going? Hi.
How was the water? It was awesome.
I saw a whale.
There's a lot of whales coming through now.
Always in this area, they go back to the channel and they go to Maui.
And are they protected out here in the waters? Yes.
All the whales in Hawaii are protected.
That's awesome.
It's really good.
Where'd you learn how to spearfish? I learned how to spearfish when I was about seven years old.
My grandpa used to take me to the beach and lie down underneath a rock and shoot fish.
That's cool you have like, memory of learning how to do it.
You just got to respect the ocean, you know, whatever you take, you don't want to take too much.
I mean, is that like, the The law of the land here? Yeah.
It's basically just the whole culture thing about Hawaii, sharing your catch, you know.
In Hawaii, we call ohana "ohana" means family.
Nice to meet you.
In Hawaii, ohana is like It's ohana over everything.
Family over everything.
In the Hawaiian culture, family extends past blood.
Sharing everything you've got, everything you believe in, sharing all the love.
Thanks for having us.
A pleasure to meet you.
And everybody is one.
This kind of inclusiveness could only could from a people isolated through much of history by thousands of miles of sea.
What probably started out as a means of survival, of man looking after fellow man, became embedded into their culture as an essential way of life.
Bye, whale! I've never seen a whale that close.
I've never seen a whale, I don't think.
That was nice of him.
Yeah, he was awesome, that guy.
Is that snow on top of the mountain? Yeah, you can see snow right there, dude.
It's such a contradiction down here and up there.
It keeps shifting from like, "Lost in Space," to an American western.
Yeah, I didn't expect Hawaii to look like this at all.
I mean, they've got a lot of everything here.
Wild goats.
Part of any ride is the hunt for authenticity, finding the little things that make a place all its own and in Hawaii, that means coffee.
Of the 50 states, it's the only one producing my main caffeine fix.
So we're heading to a spot I've heard serves the best cup of coffee on the island.
I'm excited.
I'm a coffee enthusiast.
You are definitely a coffee junkie.
Whenever I go to L.
And I hang out with you, I probably drink 10 cups of coffee a day.
I hope it's like, super-dark roast.
I don't know, I'm excited to find out, though.
I brought a thermos, I'm going to fill it up.
But first, a quick pit stop.
Yo, Patrick, you need to stop? We're going to stop at this pink hotel.
Yeah, let's go.
Yeah, this is real pink.
This is pinky pink.
How are you? Can we use your bathroom real quick? Yeah, of course.
We have a great bathroom out back.
- Great.
- Let's go see it.
Look at this.
My goodness.
This is great.
Look at look at this.
Go in there.
Crazy, right? This is kind of like, the best pit stop ever.
Do you feel more connected to nature now? A little bit.
I can hear you peeing, by the way.
How does it sound? It sounds like you're peeing.
Are you still peeing? I'm done.
Listen how far down it goes.
Well worth the wait.
Thanks so much for letting us come in.
Thank you.
What's going on right here? 1910? This is Mr.
Inaba's parents, who actually started the hotel.
Is this one of those old photos that you had to sit for an hour to get the photo? Look at these old cars, too.
Has the bathroom always been that scenic bathroom? It has been.
It was actually a dry toilet, back in the day, before they even had running water.
So they've decided to just keep it as a bathroom and it's been the talk of the town ever since.
I'm glad you men were able to stop by and use our bathroom.
You're so sweet.
Later, gator.
Later, gator.
Good job.
Thank you.
Y'all have a safe ride.
Thank you.
What'd you think of the pink hotel? I liked it.
I liked peeing there.
I wish the urinal had a better view.
This whole day has been a pee pee party.
As my buddy Negan would say, it was a "pee pee pants party.
" Bada-baba.
This is unreal.
It's actually the home of Pele, our Hawaiian volcano goddess.
I feel like I would have a crush on Pele and then she would turn me into a tree.
[Birds Yeah! This is so cool.
There's all this mountain vibe.
The colors are extreme, right? Yeah.
Smells good.
It does smell good.
Coffee! Coffee, coffee! 300 years ago, the first Westerners showed up on Hawaii, bringing along agricultural staples from the mainland.
Soon, Hawaiian cowboys and coffee farmers took over the countryside, transforming the island forever.
Leaving Holualoa, it's a 70-mile coastline ride around the island's southern tip into Pahala, where we reach Aikane Plantation.
It's a working ranch and a coffee farm, all in one.
I'm Meryl.
Nice to meet you, Norman.
Nice to meet you, yeah.
Nice to meet you.
Hi, nice to meet you.
Please, come help yourself.
Yeah? Do you drink so much coffee, having your own coffee spot? No, I try not to.
I'd be like, ay-yi-yi-yi, all the time.
I would.
My grandfather was a rancher, but my great-grandfather was the coffee grower.
And he was the first coffee grower in this district.
This has been in my family since the 1800s.
This is delicious.
- I'm moving in.
What's happening? That's protocol, announcing that we're going up into the mountain area and we don't mean any harm to the mountain.
That was beautiful.
Are we ready to go see some cows? You give us coffee and then put us to work.
Is that how it works? That's right.
Let's do it.
Am I driving? Yeah.
Patrick, we're friends, drive nicely.
I'm going to go nice.
Come down, come! Coming up over the mountain.
Yo! And the bull's in the lead.
Come, come, come, come! There's some that don't want to go through that gate.
Come! Come on.
I think we can stop up here.
Here we go.
Come on, I got lunch.
You are so slimy.
Over here! There's a there's a There's a fly problem.
We got a fly problem.
You are super-gross.
Yes, over here.
Yeah, so this right here He licked my nothing like playing a cowboy in the movies.
I have cow slime all over my pants.
This is my ohana.
They're friends that have been in the area for a long time.
This is a feast right here.
Growing up in Hawaii, you go to a luau.
That's a big party and family comes with guitars, ukuleles.
A lot of times, it's to pay back all your workers.
It's saying thank you, saying mahalo for all the work that was done.
They don't mess around.
You're good on a horse.
Thank you.
Did you ever ride motorcycles? No, I'm scared.
Really? But you ride the black stallion like it's nothing.
You could ride a bike.
Today, we caught a glimpse of Hawaii that I didn't even know existed and that alone made it worth the journey.
This is a great time here.
Thank you so much.
Thanks for having us.
I'm not usually one to eat and run, but it's been a long day.
Bye, cutie.
And after all that cattle slobber Wait, wait, wait, I got to get my coffee to go.
I think a hot bath might just be in my future.
Bye, guys! Morning.
My phone, grab my change, got the camera.
I got my dad's lucky belt buckle.
See that? That used to be my dad's belt buckle.
And the back says, "1939.
" Dad for luck.
Let's do it.
Quick, close your eyes and picture Hawaii.
What do you see? Probably not this.
What's up, chickens? But on the Big Island, even with its miles of barren landscape, beauty is all around.
You just need to know where to look.
That's so purple.
That's the best part about bikes is like, you can't text and you can't look at some stupid scroll on Instagram.
That's so true.
Patrick's heard about one of the most picturesque spots here, so we're going to go start our day by checking it out.
You smell that nature.
Good morning.
How are you? Yeah.
It's crazy with all this jungle that they don't have any poisonous snakes.
There's like no monkeys or anything, right? No.
Like, if this was Costa Rica, it'd be, pow-pow-pow-pow-pow-pow! Is that the waterfall? That's just stupid.
Right? Yes.
That is just stupid-pretty.
You know what this is? What? Paradise.
I'm going to do the pano real quick.
I suck at panos.
You know what I mean? Like, I suck at the panorama.
Derba-derba-derba-deb, you know? Look at this tree.
I've never seen a tree like this.
This tree here is a banyan tree.
It grows these aerial roots and when they touch the ground, they just form another trunk.
Did the lava come through here and take these out, back in the day? The lava won't come here.
There's a legend about the fire god, Pele and her boyfriend Kamapua'a.
They were like lovers, but then they fought.
She said, you live from Wailuku River to the north and I'll stay from Wailuku River, east to south.
So that's why when she pass a river, you start seeing lava flows, lava rocks.
Pele is an ancient Hawaiian goddess that pretty much created all the islands.
Is what does she look like? Is there any like, visions of what she's supposed to look like? There's various interpretations.
Old woman with long, gray hair.
I thought she would be a redhead, for sure.
She's beautiful.
She's normally dressed in white, from what I understand.
She's a walking lava goddess.
You respect her, she'll respect us.
Creates, as well as takes away? Yeah.
You don't mess with her.
No, you don't mess with her.
I like your shirt.
Can we have one more picture? Listen, lady Please? Please? This one had a few drinks this morning.
Thank you! Of course, yeah.
Give me whatever she's having.
On second thought, scratch that.
We're off to see a group whose respect for Pele and her creations is evident in how they ride.
Rock Island Riders.
I can't wait.
Look at all these hoodlums.
If we could get a permit, we could ride over the lava.
Why do I think you're messing with me? I mean, right? He's just got that face.
I had this lady come up to me the other day and she's like, "My God, I watched your show.
It was so depressing," and I'm like, "Yeah, yeah.
" She's like, "Sean Penn was the rapist, molester, whatever," and I'm like, "That's not my show.
" She's like, "Yeah, the 'Dead' thing.
" They know that you're famous, but they don't know what it is.
Leaving Honomu, we're taking a 20-mile ride down the Mamalahoa Highway to meet up with a dual sport biker group who knows the best way to experience this island is to leave the roads behind.
Don't you have another dirt bike? Yeah, I'm really liking the enduro, though, because it's just so light and fun.
It's kind of like a regression, because I used to do motorcross.
When I was a kid, that's how it all started.
This must be the place.
Look at all these hoodlums.
You look like a hoodlum.
I know, I'm the worst one and trust me.
How are you, man? Norman.
Nice to meet you, brother.
What's up, man? How are you? Norman.
Nice to meet you.
Good to meet you.
This looks like a A guy's wet dream.
Man and his toys, You got everything in here.
How was your ride so far? It's been beautiful.
It's so pretty here.
Yeah, this island is a favorite for all motorcycle riders, because this is a volcanic island, you know, so, and it's still going.
How close can you get to it? If we could get a permit, we could ride over the lava, which we used to do in the old days.
That doesn't rip your tires? It does.
It does? Eats it.
You can burn up a set of tires in one day on that stuff.
Like a dangerous crew right here.
I can feel it.
We do off-road only.
Yeah, that's kind of his forte as well.
Really? Yes.
Sunset Boulevard.
Right? We used to do a A 200-mile enduro on this island.
The terrain is so varied, the weather so different from point to point, that the Mauna Kea 200 is truly a ride to remember.
We we quit it about, a few years ago, just because getting permits was too much of a pain.
There's all kinds of close calls, you know.
Cars coming your way when we're off-roading and cows going in In your path and A cow? Yeah.
So coming home in one piece is really the most important thing.
So we're going to get something to eat.
Yeah, sounds good.
All right! This is awesome.
I feel like we're going to go rob a bank.
Beautiful day.
I see some gray clouds up ahead, though.
Well, some of that might be the fall from the volcanoes, so That's volcano smoke over there? That's volcano smoke, yes, sir.
Cujo! We're entering Old Historic Hilo.
Look at this.
This is beautiful.
This is Honoli'i, a local surfing beach.
That's a real wave.
This town has been hit by tidal waves twice.
Really? The whole town is Was wiped out.
That's why, if you look on the horizon, you see the break wall out there.
That could stop tidal waves? Actually, it does.
If if the wave's coming in, it breaks the wave.
This place is fully alive all the time.
This is the Old Mamalahoa Highway.
You can just imagine driving all the way to Kona on this road.
It'd take you all day to get there.
Look at this.
Making our way through this narrow, twisted, old highway, it's as if it were made with a motorcycle in mind.
Look at that bamboo.
Look how tall that is.
Everything gets big in Hawaii.
The towering trees, the lush tropical air, you're totally encompassed by your surroundings.
This is awesome, man.
All right, let's go.
Let's see if we can find some poi, too, okay.
This is all fresh stuff.
How are you? Gosh! What was I getting? Poi.
Poi and poke.
Why do I think you're messing with me? I mean, right? He's just got that face.
Like he's trying to trick me into eating something gnarly.
Is this us? Yes.
And then what do I do with that? You dip your poke in it and you eat it.
Dip? You sure? Yes.
Bye, thank you.
Have a nice day.
We stole all this food.
We're not paying.
You'll never catch us.
This is so pretty here.
Where's your poi? Where's your poi? Poi is the staple food of the ancient Hawaiians.
What is it made out of? It's taro.
It's a taro plant that we squash and we smash, turns to like, putty.
Take a stab.
My children, they ate poi before they even ate baby food.
It doesn't taste like nothing.
There's no flavor to that.
Tastes like dirt.
Right here.
The real Hawaiians actually like it when it starts actually growing green stuff on the top of it.
Like fungus and mold.
I lived in Japan for awhile.
I've had some funky food in Japan, I'll tell you that.
There's some things in Georgia you don't want to eat, too.
You guys are great at protecting things here.
Well, it comes Comes down from the Hawaiians.
'Cause the population of the Big Island used to be like 250,000 people before.
Really? Way more than it is now.
This was pre-Western contact.
And all of those people had to be supported off the land, so Why has it changed to where there's less people on the Big Island? Well, when Western people started coming here, they brought diseases with 'em.
And so the Hawaiian population died out.
I didn't know any of this.
I didn't know that, either.
Anybody like some poi? Norman, you don't like poi? You know, I'm kind of on the fence with the poi, I got to tell you.
Thank you guys for taking us on this journey.
You guys are awesome.
The Rock Island Riders aren't your typical biker group, but after two days on the Big Island, I'm realizing this place is full of surprises.
How amazing.
This is beautiful right here.
We can sit here.
Look, they have a koi farm.
I like that there's a group like those guys, like They were the coolest.
They're like, older and they're like still doing it.
And they're good people.
You think you could ever live here, like, does it drive you nuts? Full-time, no? Don't you get tired of L.
, though, after awhile? I get tired of wherever after awhile and want to just pick up everything and move.
If I didn't have the job I have in L.
, the life I have, I'd probably be very different about it.
I've heard paradise isn't a place, but a state of mind.
Whoever said that obviously never made it to Hawaii.
What what are we doing tomorrow, by the way? Everything.
Timber! Watch out! Banana! Yeah! The lava itself is about 75 feet below the surface.
My God.
There's a pig.
Are we breaking in someone's house right now? Yeah.
My God! Hi.
Don't let him out.
Come here.
He's feisty, come here.
No, no, he's like biting at me.
Hey, come here.
He bit me! This is Humphrey.
He was on the beach all by himself, about a week old.
He's about four months now.
Does he bite you? Yeah, he bit me.
He's teething.
It's interesting he doesn't freak out on you.
He knows it's you, right? Yeah, he sleeps with me.
He matches your outfit.
He bit me again.
I could see you with one of these.
Yeah, right, my cat would kill this thing.
That's what I sound like when I wake up.
Oink, oink, oink, oink.
So thi cool little area, right? Yeah, it's very It's like a western town.
What's up, man? Last night, we caught some zzz's in the coastal town of Hilo.
My God! What's popping, baby? Can I get a picture with you, man? Of course, yeah.
It's a cool, little city with a volatile past.
Twice, they've had to rebuild after tsunamis wiped out the downtown.
You hear that? What is that? Let's check this out.
Who's the puppy? Hi, puppy.
That's Sonny.
Hi, Sonny.
How are you? You're awesome.
That was great.
Is that like an electric ukulele? Yeah.
What a cool shop.
Believe it or not, there was only three ukuleles from the start of the shop.
I soon realized this was a serious instrument over here.
So as you can see now, there's close to 200 ukuleles here.
Where where are you from? Scotland.
What are you doing out here? Having fun.
I looked up Hawaii on the Internet and I came over here and after an hour in Hilo, I said, "Okay, this is where I want to live.
" So what What's your most prized ukulele? Look at that one.
This is Hawaiian koa.
Which is now protected by the state.
And next to Brazilian rosewood, it's the most expensive wood in the world.
Can't make it any That's a $3,000 ukulele.
Yeah, it is.
I only play the best.
Well, tell me about this area.
This area seems Seems super-cool.
Well, if you look out there where the soccer fields were, that actually used to be the Downtown Hilo.
And when the tsunami came, it completely wiped it out.
And rather than rebuild, they just put soccer fields in there.
My wife said that she remembers as a child, her house being lifted up and moved about 40 or 50 yards.
That's crazy.
I've actually had to empty out the store about seven times.
You know, we get the tsunami warnings, it's sirens go off and it's pretty spooky.
And then we get hurricanes and Active volcanoes.
Active volcanoes.
I'm kind of scared of Pele, to be honest.
I feel like I would have a crush on Pele and then she would turn me into a tree like, right away.
It's a pleasure to meet you.
Thank you so much.
A pleasure to meet you, too.
Patrick, where are you taking me for breakfast? I kind of want one of them coconuts.
Why not? Riding around this island, you meet a lot of people like Ken, transplants, vagabonds, those who packed up and came here for their next chapter.
That kind of life is in my blood.
Hey, is this where we went with the Rock Island Riders? This is it, right? We're on our way to Mount Kilauea, because when you're on an island with an active volcano, you head straight towards the eruption Here we go, here we go, here we go.
Unless you're hungry, in which case, you look for some breakfast.
Here we go.
Yeah, this is going to be yummy.
Hey, what's up, man? Hi.
Nice to meet you.
How you guys doing today? Really good.
We got all kind of good, fresh fruit for you today.
I'll have a coconut.
You don't mess around with that knife.
You ever cut yourself or never? Yeah, yeah.
For sure.
I just learned to go easy with it.
Where you from, dude? I was born right here in Hilo, man.
Really? Yeah, born and raised right in Hilo.
My brother right here.
What's up, man? Hi, how are you? Thank you, sir.
Did he show you these ice cream beans? These ones came out of the Amazon and they're kind of new to Hawaii and it's been studied as a tree to help heal the Amazon.
They call it inga.
Those are great.
They're like candy.
How'd you guys start doing this? We all started this with my family in the year 2000.
We started the homestead.
The banana was one of the first things we planted and then I have my two daughters and my mom and other people who help on the land and stuff.
You guys got this island figured out.
This one's called the apple banana.
And they're all organic.
So much better than your fancy grocery store.
I know.
It's like a whole new experience.
So dense.
You're going to do it Hawaiian style.
Coconut spoon meat breakfast.
And this is the stuff, this is amazing.
It's actually one of the reasons why the Hawaiians used to have 10 kids each right here.
What do you mean? Very fertile.
Lot of It's really good.
Yeah, it's good stuff.
Hi! Hi, cutie.
She feed the peacocks coconut? Yeah.
Our dogs eat coconut.
Everything pretty much eats the coconut.
Are those the bananas that we tried? Yep, you can see that That one rack right up there is pretty much getting ripe.
Once they start getting full and round, you go and you follow that trunk down and you cut down that whole stock of the tree.
Get in there, Patrick! Get in there! Come on, get in there.
Do a big a big, like a wedge, like Yeah, yeah, yeah, I got you.
You got it.
Get me that banana, Patrick.
Come on.
There we go.
Timber! Watch out! Banana! There you go.
Yeah! You know what I'm saying? His first rack of bananas! Thank you very much.
Thanks for this food.
It's delicious.
Have a good trip, you guys.
Next stop, Kilauea, and a potential date with a certain volcano goddess.
Look at this, dude.
This doesn't even look real.
This is a very, very sacred area.
You know how you just get that shiver up your spine and it's like? I have it right now.
That's so pretty.
your right.
It looks so cool with all this black sand down to it, too.
Leaving Hilo, it's a 30-mile ride down Hawaii Belt Road to Volcanoes National Park.
Once there, a 20-mile, 3,700-foot ascent up Chain of Craters Road will give us the perfect vantage point of Kilauea.
Hawaii's famed volcanoes are the most spectacular, yet the most readily accessible in all the world.
Of the five volcanoes that helped create this island, it's the only one still currently erupting.
This is unreal.
It's hard to imagine, but where these lava rocks dominate the landscape, there was once life.
Smells like a forest fire.
Trees, farms, even villages.
But as the lava spread, it engulfed everything in its path.
Over time, this area will be completely reborn, but today, it's kind of like riding on Mars.
Look at that sunset, man.
My God.
Yeah, it's so beautiful.
That's a real gust.
I feel like a sail on a sailboat right now.
Going to blow you right off this cliff.
Stay low.
I'm blowing over.
Yo, I'm stopping.
It's crazy.
50-mile-per-hour winds and bikes don't really mix, but we've made it.
We're at Volcanoes National Park.
Honestly, I thought I was going to flip over.
It got real.
Just lay back.
We've done sand, we've done ice.
Fancy air.
Don't go far.
And wind is my least favorite.
Look at this, dude.
This doesn't even look real.
This is really pretty.
What's this called, this little point? So this is the Holei Sea Arch.
This arch is about 600 years old and you can see how the erosions have been gradual over time and has a Is it always this windy? No, we have really high winds today.
Look how Look how the waves are like, wa-wah! Right? How was your ride down the road? It was scary.
Well, you guys came down Chain of Craters Road, which is a notoriously famous road.
In 1969, Kilauea erupted and covered it.
And then the Park Service built the road again.
We'd rebuild it and Kilauea would come and reclaim it again.
How do you know it's not going to erupt right now and come down here? Actually, Kilauea is erupting right now, from two spots.
Let's get out of here.
Let's go.
We have an eruption from Kilauea, which is going into the ocean just five miles from where we are.
- And we also have the one back up at the summit.
There's a giant lava lake.
It's actually the legendary home of Pele-honua-mea.
She's our Hawaiian volcano goddess.
She's a bad ass.
She has gotten jealous and changed a would-be suitor into an ohia tree.
She's struck some men dead and there's many, many legends about this very fiery volcano goddess.
And her home is that actual summit crater.
You guys have to go up and see the lava lake.
Yeah, let's do it.
Pele is real.
In my eyes, she's real.
We were taught when we were growing up, it was basically never disbelief.
Respecting Pele and all she stands for, it's it's just what we do.
I'm taking you right to the edge of Kilauea Volcano.
Yeah, this is a very, very sacred area.
We're about a mile away from that lava lake, which is about 800 feet across.
The lava itself is about 75 feet below the surface.
And it's 2,400 Fahrenheit.
Does it ever like, puhk!, in the air? We've actually had the lava rise up and ooze over that ledge, which was really spectacular to see.
But mostly, it's kind of this beautiful type of effusive volcano.
Pele is also all the steam and the gasses rising from it, so a lot of times, these clouds will take the shape of faces and a lot people feel like they can really see Pele and connect with the volcano goddess.
Have you ever seen faces? All the time.
What happens when you do? You know how you just get that shiver up your spine and it's like? I have it right now.
Watching steam rise from the glowing lava and you realize, this place is alive.
Volcanoes destroy, but also create.
And for the Hawaiian people, learning to coexist with this ever-changing landscape has been paramount to their survival, which is why their reverence for Pele makes all the sense in the world.
I'm glad we finally got to do this together.
I know, it's amazing.
I knew you would hate this.
Before coming to Hawaii, "aloha" was just a word, a kitsch greeting to make tourist feel like they're off the mainland, but being here, I realize that aloha, the spirit of the Hawaiian people, it's real.
There's a hospitality and inclusiveness on this island that doesn't exist anywhere else in the world.
All right.
This is amazing down here.
Yeah, it's surreal.

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