Tucci in Italy (2025) s01e05 Episode Script
Lazio
1
[bell tolling]
[Stanley Tucci] I'm in Rome.
I was here last year
making a major motion picture,
and at the end of my two months' stay,
I happened upon a little eatery,
in which I ate one of
the most delicious sandwiches
I've ever had in my life.
I'm taking you there now,
so that you can watch me eat it again.
[melodic piano music swells]
I believe that the best way to understand
what makes a country and its people unique
is through their food.
This is incredible.
Oh, man.
And this is true nowhere more than Italy.
-Okay.
-Nice. You smell that?
Mm, mm, mm!
Where even the shape of your pasta
and the sauce you serve it with
speaks directly to identity.
-You like it?
-I love it.
Oh, my God, it's so good!
And differentiates
the character and history
of each region sharply from the next.
It's just not what you expect.
I'm Stanley Tucci
and I'm exploring the complex connections
between the land, the people,
and the food they eat
in order to discover
the essence of each region
in the country I love, Italy.
[peppy upbeat music playing]
[softly] Mmm.
These are the brothers Trecastelli.
Nicoló and Manuel.
They're responsible for this creation
that has redefined my idea
of what a sandwich is.
[Stanley]
The Trecastelli brothers' sandwich
reinforces the reputation
of Lazio as Rome's larder.
The region is halfway up
the shin of Italy.
Rome is the beating heart at its center,
the Tiber River its crucial artery.
The rolling countryside cradling
the capital boasts quaint villages,
wide green fields and abundant produce
which fuels the city.
Rome, of course, is rather different.
[majestic orchestral composition swells]
This was once the capital
of a huge empire.
Now it's a layer cake
of ancient history
[horns honking]
and modern chaos.
[orchestral music continues]
But throughout time,
the city has been fed
by the incredible
seasonal produce of the region,
creating distinctly Roman dishes,
such as carbonara and cacio e pepe.
And in this city,
"Un buon rapporto qualita prezzo"
or, "Value for money," is essential,
which is why my first stop
is a humble eatery.
So the trattoria you have
regional dishes, family recipes,
nothing fancy.
Right, it's just a place where you go
It's a local, a local restaurant.
Lavinia Martini is Roman born and bred.
After studying Latin and Greek,
she devoted herself to writing
about classic Roman food.
You have one trattoria
in every good neighborhood.
In every good neighborhood, yeah.
-More than one.
-At least one, yeah.
-At least one.
-Yeah. Yeah.
Maybe you can choose the,
the neighborhood to live,
the neighborhood to live
-By the trattoria.
-Yeah, if they have a good one.
And is this the one
you used to go to as a kid?
-Yes.
-Yeah.
This is a really nice place and I love it.
-[Stanley] Frizzante?
-[Lavinia Martini] Yes.
-[indistinct chatter]
-So nice.
-This is the menu of the day.
-Uh-oh.
I thought you were gonna sit down.
[laughter]
Thank you. Oh, my God, look at that menu.
That's a big [laughs]
That's a big menu
for a very small restaurant.
-[Lavinia] Yes, it is, it is.
-Yes.
And it changes every day.
-What?
-[Lavinia] Huge, yes.
[laughter]
[Stanley] The menu,
like all good trattorias,
changes with the seasons
to feature the best
of what's available and fresh.
We've ordered two
springtime vegetable dishes,
artichoke alla Romana
and zucchine alla concia.
[Lavinia]
I can have, like, a kilo of this.
I know, and it's good,
it's just olive oil.
[Lavinia] A little bit of vinegar.
-A little bit of vinegar.
-[Lavinia] Parsley.
[Stanley] Maybe a little garlic,
and then, and you fry it.
[Lavinia] A little bit,
and a little bit of spicy.
Yeah.
[Lavinia] Yes, a little bit of menta.
This is a dish that actually
you can make at home,
you can cook at home.
But it's so good if you eat outside
because it's made with love, really.
By the people who know how to make it.
Yeah, really, how to make it
in the proper way.
[Stanley] [mouth full]
Like this. It's so good.
Yes. Artichoke, it's like our religion.
-And pasta.
-Yes, of course.
Speaking of
Grazie. Oh, boy.
I'm having pajata,
and Lavinia's having cacio e pepe.
Spaghetti with cheese and pepper.
This is one of my favorite dishes ever.
-[Lavinia] La pajata?
-[Stanley] Yeah.
It's not easy to, to explain it,
it's a part of the intestine of the veal.
That still has the mother's milk.
[Lavinia] Yeah. And it's uh
-Inside of it.
-[Lavinia] Inside of it.
I know for a lot of people, they don't
But it's delicious, but it came out of
A culture of, uh, no waste.
-No waste. No waste.
-No waste.
[Stanley] Mm.
This is really good,
because you get
the sweetness of the tomato
and then the slight sourness
of the, the milk in the intestine.
It's really good.
So, they serve traditional Roman dishes.
Yes. And the reason why I love this place
is that it's so familiar,
it is comfortable.
You feel at home but you are not at home,
and it's crucial for the neighborhood
to have a place like this,
to meet your friends.
[Stanley] Like, in England you'd have
your local pub that you'd go to.
It's a place that everybody congregates.
Those places are
absolutely crucial to making,
like, keeping a society healthy,
and in Italy it takes
the form of a trattoria.
[Lavinia] Yes.
[Stanley] This is unpretentious,
down-to-earth food
which showcases the high quality
and variety of Lazian produce.
Something it has in common
with one of my other favorites
Roman pizza.
No one really knows why,
but the Roman version is thin and crispy
unlike its fluffier Neapolitan cousin.
Some of the best are served in A Rota
in the suburb of Tor Pignattara.
Owner Sami El Sabawy
learned his skills from his dad, Ramadan.
[laughter]
Ramadan and Sami are just two
of 20,000 Egyptian pizza makers in Italy.
[Stanley] [whispers] Stop it.
Look at that.
[Stanley] Thank God for the Egyptians.
The smell too.
[soft peppy music playing]
Oh, Sami!
Mm. Mm!
[mouth full]
It's so simple, and so crispy.
[laughs]
Ingredients allowed
to speak for themselves.
This is essential to Roman cooking.
But so many people who come to Rome
have never really
ventured beyond the city,
myself included, until now.
[bright, spirited
orchestral music swells]
[Stanley]
My first stop into Lazio is a town
that once vied with Rome
in terms of power and influence.
Roughly 20 miles
southeast of Rome lies Ariccia,
one of 16 towns and villages
called the Castelli Romani.
Ancient Romans came here
to sacrifice pigs to the gods.
Later, it was a hunting ground
for well-heeled nobles.
Today, tourists pass through
sampling what Ariccia's
expert butchers learned to do
with all that pork.
Local winemaker
and restaurateur Remigio Sognatesori
is taking me to one of the best
porchetterias in town.
[Stanley] What Eleonora reveals
is that it's a mix
of garlic, rosemary and other herbs
that fill it with flavor.
Oh, my God, look at that.
Mm.
That is so beautiful.
I don't even know what to say,
it's so [bleep] good.
-[Remigio Sognatesori] The skin.
-The skin.
[Eleonora Mancini] For you.
Oh, man.
Oh, man!
[Eleonora and Remigio laughing]
Oh, my God, it's so good!
That crunch.
[Stanley] You might think
that a light red wine
is best with pork,
but the people of the Castelli Romani
instead pair theirs
with a glass of the local fizzy white,
which is said to remove
the fat from your palate.
Cheers.
[bread crunching]
[Stanley] Incredible.
Oh, that bread is beautiful. You're right.
Mm.
Mm.
-A cuddle? Mm, I like that.
-Yes.
-But for your soul.
-For your soul?
-Oh, yes.
-Yeah.
-And for your stomach.
-[both laugh]
Ariccia's porchetta
shows what can be achieved
when you decide to do one thing
and do it really well.
It's a lesson
the neighboring town of Frascati
has also taken to heart.
[gentle piano music playing]
[Stanley]
Remigio's hometown has been famous
since antiquity for its wine.
Made from the grapes grown
in the south facing vineyards
that surround it.
Almost as celebrated are
the shops called fraschette,
where thirsty day-trippers can sample it.
Remigio is taking me to one
that's very close to his heart.
It's been in his family
for over 100 years,
and where he was born.
Ahh. Sì.
[speaks Italian] Stanley.
[Stanley] Okay.
[Stanley]
The fagotto Remigio is assembling
is a combination of the tastiest products
from the surrounding towns.
An homage to the days
when visitors would bring
their own food from home
to accompany the wine.
That's nice.
Mm. It's very good.
[laughs] Okay, so
[Stanley] Uffa.
But in the past the food
came from their house.
It's It's brilliant.
I love those, yeah.
Mm.
Oh, my God. Wait. What?
The handcrafted morsels keep coming.
Buffalo mozzarella,
and what may look like French fries
but are actually roast potatoes
with breadcrumbs
prepared with Remigio's own recipe.
Oh, my gosh.
Oh, my gosh. This is amazing.
Are you a chef?
Also, your porchetta is really good.
-Yes.
-I'm an expert now.
[laughter]
To share. Sharing.
-Yes.
-Yes.
But [chuckles]
[laughter]
[Stanley] These signature products
are a testament to
a tradition of true artisanship
in these villages.
They're local specialties
that have become famous
throughout Lazio and beyond.
-Thank you.
-You're welcome.
[Stanley]
But outside the reach of the big city,
the flavors aren't quite as familiar.
[cheerful, soothing melody playing]
Okay.
Daniele Papi has been a fisherman
all his life, here in Marta.
Near the borders with Umbria and Tuscany.
Where Lakes Bracciano, Vico,
and my destination, Bolsena
are nestled in the hills.
They were created
tens of thousands of years ago
when a string of collapsed volcanoes
filled up with rain and spring water.
They've long been famous
for the quality of their fish
which once graced tables across Italy.
Today, this freshwater catch can be found
in discerning kitchens around Europe.
Okay.
Sbroscia traditionally uses
only the fish left behind
after the most prized have been sold.
Buongiorno.
Today, as every day,
it's being made for the fishermen
by Giuliano Rocchi,
the president of their cooperative.
[soft symphonic music playing]
[speaking Italian]
[Stanley] Giuliano has already
started the base of the stew,
which is oil, lard,
onion, garlic, and chili.
So a lot of people don't eat pike,
I, I've eaten pike, I like pike.
[Stanley] Sì.
Ah.
[Stanley] The name "sbroscia" means slops,
or dishwater but, ironically,
the original recipe
calls for the purest water,
from Lake Bolsena itself.
[Stanley] Wow.
[speaks Italian]
[laughs]
Oh, wow. That's incredibly aromatic.
[Stanley] The aroma is somewhere
between mint and marjoram.
[slow, tender piano notes ring softly]
[Stanley] Oh, yeah.
[piano notes continue]
Wow.
The final ingredient isn't something
that goes in the sbroscia,
but where it's eaten.
[speaking Italian]
[Stanley] This unique stew can only
be found in this little corner of Lazio.
[grunts]
[Stanley] Mm. Mm.
Delicious. Delicious.
Yeah. Yeah.
Sì, sì, sì.
[Stanley] That's so good.
These men delight
in underrated ingredients.
[faint conversation in Italian]
Their tastes are proudly rustic,
something they share
with some unexpected neighbors.
[quiet, tranquil music playing]
[soft joyful melody playing]
[Stanley]
If you're searching for the good life,
the views alone
make the village of Trevinano
an appealing place to start.
Or for some, restart.
It floats in a sea of green,
in the most northwesterly corner of Lazio,
surrounded by some of Italy's
most beautiful countryside.
[thunder cracks, rumbles]
Not that you can see it today.
It's too cold and windy.
Some might even say miserable.
I would.
They make marvelous wines here,
but I'll have to visit
the vineyards another time.
The good news is that somewhere
in these cobbled streets
is a restaurant called La Parolina.
Iside de Cesare and Romano Gordini
got tired of running restaurants in Rome
and relocated here on the frontier.
Today they harvest the flavors
of the countryside
to make classic Lazian dishes,
with an elegant twist,
like hazelnut steak tartare.
This approach won them a Michelin star.
So beautiful.
[delicate piano strains resonate softly]
Delicious.
Another of Iside's signature dishes
is an elegant pasta.
One that is transformed
by the addition of a refined take
on the fisherman's rustic sbroscia.
[Stanley] Sì.
[Stanley] Hmm.
You want me to do it? Okay.
-[Iside de Cesare] Yes.
-Okay.
-You are a perfectionist.
-Yeah, well, you know
[Iside] So, please.
-[Iside] Yes.
-[Stanley] Tagliolini.
-Yeah. Oh. No.
-Oh, yes, please.
It's a big honor for me.
It's an honor for me. Are you kidding?
-You want to taste?
-Look at how beautiful that is.
Yes.
Oh, my God.
So now me move and we go to prepare the--
Oh, we go over there. Okay.
[gentle, dulcet piano chords playing]
-[Iside] So we are ready.
-[Stanley] So
Sbroscia.
[chords continue playing]
[Stanley] Beautiful.
[Stanley] Mm.
Now you move.
[Stanley] [mouth full]
That
Sorry.
That
I love that.
[triumphant
orchestral music reverberates]
Iside and Romano
aren't the only Romans in town.
Their neighbors, Giuliano and Simona,
left IT jobs in the city
to come here and make wine,
despite having no previous experience.
Who's having what wine?
[Stanley] They're joining us for lunch
with their daughter Maia.
[grand orchestral symphony
swells majestically]
[Stanley] I mean, delicious.
[Stanley]
So tell me about why you're here.
So, we had a very stressful life in Rome.
Everything was very comfortable,
but we wanted some discomfort.
-[Stanley] Oh.
-[Simona] Yeah.
We were looking for something
more authentic, more genuine.
We wanted to, you know, be cold in winter,
and-and have trouble lighting a fire.
And then to be a farmer.
It's, it's a lot of physical work,
but of course it's very rewarding.
-[Stanley] Yeah.
-We're pioneering the area.
But we're trying to revive
something that was lost.
So tell me,
when you opened the restaurant,
how many years ago?
-Nineteen years ago.
-[Stanley] But why here?
[Iside] For the beauty.
We had the, the dream
to bring people from the city,
to share the beauty with them, that's why.
[Stanley] Because this landscape,
I would think I was in Tuscany.
Yeah, this is Radicofani.
You see the tower?
-[Stanley] So that is Tuscany?
-Yeah.
Oh, no wonder why I feel
like I'm looking at Tuscany.
-[chuckles] Yeah.
-[Stanley laughs]
So, Maia, for you growing up here,
how do you feel about this place?
It's a beautiful place to live
but, like, there isn't
a Chinese place here
which I'm very sad about.
[laughing]
And, uh, when we take like a day
and we go to Rome I'm very happy
because there is, like, big stores
and, uh, the choice of, of food is so
-[Stanley] Yeah, yeah.
-The variety of food is
-Incredible, yeah.
-[Maia] Yeah.
But every time I come back here
I realize that usually
people never have the chance
to come here and see all of this.
So, I'm really happy
to live here but in the future,
I will have to move.
-I need to have some experience.
-Yeah.
[Maia] But, uh, I will come back.
I will come back.
-[Stanley] Yeah.
-We come here, the dreamers.
We had the dream to bring people
to share the beauty.
Because here we can have the inspiration.
Sì.
To the beauty and to the dreams.
-Thank you.
-Salute.
[laughter]
[Stanley] These enterprising Lazians
are culinary pioneers.
But no matter where you are
in this region,
there's one food that brings everyone,
city or countryside dweller, together.
[epic orchestral music plays]
[birds chirping]
[sheep bleating]
[Stanley] Lamb is a delicacy
that Lazians have always cherished.
Especially in springtime.
[delicate, soothing music playing]
[Stanley] I've headed back towards Rome
and the rich pastures of Castel Giuliano.
Giancarlo Gentili had a successful career
in economics in the city
but escaped back to his flock.
[Stanley] Wow.
[Stanley] Ah.
[Stanley] Sì.
[Stanley laughs]
[bleating]
[Giancarlo Gentili] Okay.
[rooster crows]
[Stanley] Today is Sunday,
so Giancarlo and his brother Giuseppe
are cooking a classic
Lazian springtime dish.
Okay.
This is abbacchio scottadito.
Abbacchio is freshly
slaughtered suckling lamb.
-[speaking Italian]
-The ribs, yes.
[Stanley] "The word "scottadito"
means scorched fingers.
Grilling the meat in this way
one can see how that name came about.
Oh, look at that now.
-Oi. [bleep].
-[laughter]
Well, y-yes, that is its name.
[delicate, tranquil chords playing]
[Stanley] Three generations
of the Gentili family live on the farm.
I'll sit here.
Most of their produce
is destined for Roman tables
but today it's destined for us.
[Stanley] Mm.
[indistinct chatter]
[Stanley speaks Italian]
Yeah, it is.
Oh, wow.
[indistinct chatter]
Delicious. Oh, thank you.
Everything on this table
is a glimpse into Lazio's past
as well as its present.
[Stanley] Ah, sì.
[laughter]
[laughter]
[indistinct chatter]
[Stanley] Rural Lazio
was unknown territory to me.
Its reputation as Rome's larder
is well deserved.
But more than that,
the capital and the countryside
share a joint culinary soul.
A passion for the uncomplicated
yet delicious food
that I know will draw me and many others
back time and time again.
[sheep bleating]
♪♪
[bell tolling]
[Stanley Tucci] I'm in Rome.
I was here last year
making a major motion picture,
and at the end of my two months' stay,
I happened upon a little eatery,
in which I ate one of
the most delicious sandwiches
I've ever had in my life.
I'm taking you there now,
so that you can watch me eat it again.
[melodic piano music swells]
I believe that the best way to understand
what makes a country and its people unique
is through their food.
This is incredible.
Oh, man.
And this is true nowhere more than Italy.
-Okay.
-Nice. You smell that?
Mm, mm, mm!
Where even the shape of your pasta
and the sauce you serve it with
speaks directly to identity.
-You like it?
-I love it.
Oh, my God, it's so good!
And differentiates
the character and history
of each region sharply from the next.
It's just not what you expect.
I'm Stanley Tucci
and I'm exploring the complex connections
between the land, the people,
and the food they eat
in order to discover
the essence of each region
in the country I love, Italy.
[peppy upbeat music playing]
[softly] Mmm.
These are the brothers Trecastelli.
Nicoló and Manuel.
They're responsible for this creation
that has redefined my idea
of what a sandwich is.
[Stanley]
The Trecastelli brothers' sandwich
reinforces the reputation
of Lazio as Rome's larder.
The region is halfway up
the shin of Italy.
Rome is the beating heart at its center,
the Tiber River its crucial artery.
The rolling countryside cradling
the capital boasts quaint villages,
wide green fields and abundant produce
which fuels the city.
Rome, of course, is rather different.
[majestic orchestral composition swells]
This was once the capital
of a huge empire.
Now it's a layer cake
of ancient history
[horns honking]
and modern chaos.
[orchestral music continues]
But throughout time,
the city has been fed
by the incredible
seasonal produce of the region,
creating distinctly Roman dishes,
such as carbonara and cacio e pepe.
And in this city,
"Un buon rapporto qualita prezzo"
or, "Value for money," is essential,
which is why my first stop
is a humble eatery.
So the trattoria you have
regional dishes, family recipes,
nothing fancy.
Right, it's just a place where you go
It's a local, a local restaurant.
Lavinia Martini is Roman born and bred.
After studying Latin and Greek,
she devoted herself to writing
about classic Roman food.
You have one trattoria
in every good neighborhood.
In every good neighborhood, yeah.
-More than one.
-At least one, yeah.
-At least one.
-Yeah. Yeah.
Maybe you can choose the,
the neighborhood to live,
the neighborhood to live
-By the trattoria.
-Yeah, if they have a good one.
And is this the one
you used to go to as a kid?
-Yes.
-Yeah.
This is a really nice place and I love it.
-[Stanley] Frizzante?
-[Lavinia Martini] Yes.
-[indistinct chatter]
-So nice.
-This is the menu of the day.
-Uh-oh.
I thought you were gonna sit down.
[laughter]
Thank you. Oh, my God, look at that menu.
That's a big [laughs]
That's a big menu
for a very small restaurant.
-[Lavinia] Yes, it is, it is.
-Yes.
And it changes every day.
-What?
-[Lavinia] Huge, yes.
[laughter]
[Stanley] The menu,
like all good trattorias,
changes with the seasons
to feature the best
of what's available and fresh.
We've ordered two
springtime vegetable dishes,
artichoke alla Romana
and zucchine alla concia.
[Lavinia]
I can have, like, a kilo of this.
I know, and it's good,
it's just olive oil.
[Lavinia] A little bit of vinegar.
-A little bit of vinegar.
-[Lavinia] Parsley.
[Stanley] Maybe a little garlic,
and then, and you fry it.
[Lavinia] A little bit,
and a little bit of spicy.
Yeah.
[Lavinia] Yes, a little bit of menta.
This is a dish that actually
you can make at home,
you can cook at home.
But it's so good if you eat outside
because it's made with love, really.
By the people who know how to make it.
Yeah, really, how to make it
in the proper way.
[Stanley] [mouth full]
Like this. It's so good.
Yes. Artichoke, it's like our religion.
-And pasta.
-Yes, of course.
Speaking of
Grazie. Oh, boy.
I'm having pajata,
and Lavinia's having cacio e pepe.
Spaghetti with cheese and pepper.
This is one of my favorite dishes ever.
-[Lavinia] La pajata?
-[Stanley] Yeah.
It's not easy to, to explain it,
it's a part of the intestine of the veal.
That still has the mother's milk.
[Lavinia] Yeah. And it's uh
-Inside of it.
-[Lavinia] Inside of it.
I know for a lot of people, they don't
But it's delicious, but it came out of
A culture of, uh, no waste.
-No waste. No waste.
-No waste.
[Stanley] Mm.
This is really good,
because you get
the sweetness of the tomato
and then the slight sourness
of the, the milk in the intestine.
It's really good.
So, they serve traditional Roman dishes.
Yes. And the reason why I love this place
is that it's so familiar,
it is comfortable.
You feel at home but you are not at home,
and it's crucial for the neighborhood
to have a place like this,
to meet your friends.
[Stanley] Like, in England you'd have
your local pub that you'd go to.
It's a place that everybody congregates.
Those places are
absolutely crucial to making,
like, keeping a society healthy,
and in Italy it takes
the form of a trattoria.
[Lavinia] Yes.
[Stanley] This is unpretentious,
down-to-earth food
which showcases the high quality
and variety of Lazian produce.
Something it has in common
with one of my other favorites
Roman pizza.
No one really knows why,
but the Roman version is thin and crispy
unlike its fluffier Neapolitan cousin.
Some of the best are served in A Rota
in the suburb of Tor Pignattara.
Owner Sami El Sabawy
learned his skills from his dad, Ramadan.
[laughter]
Ramadan and Sami are just two
of 20,000 Egyptian pizza makers in Italy.
[Stanley] [whispers] Stop it.
Look at that.
[Stanley] Thank God for the Egyptians.
The smell too.
[soft peppy music playing]
Oh, Sami!
Mm. Mm!
[mouth full]
It's so simple, and so crispy.
[laughs]
Ingredients allowed
to speak for themselves.
This is essential to Roman cooking.
But so many people who come to Rome
have never really
ventured beyond the city,
myself included, until now.
[bright, spirited
orchestral music swells]
[Stanley]
My first stop into Lazio is a town
that once vied with Rome
in terms of power and influence.
Roughly 20 miles
southeast of Rome lies Ariccia,
one of 16 towns and villages
called the Castelli Romani.
Ancient Romans came here
to sacrifice pigs to the gods.
Later, it was a hunting ground
for well-heeled nobles.
Today, tourists pass through
sampling what Ariccia's
expert butchers learned to do
with all that pork.
Local winemaker
and restaurateur Remigio Sognatesori
is taking me to one of the best
porchetterias in town.
[Stanley] What Eleonora reveals
is that it's a mix
of garlic, rosemary and other herbs
that fill it with flavor.
Oh, my God, look at that.
Mm.
That is so beautiful.
I don't even know what to say,
it's so [bleep] good.
-[Remigio Sognatesori] The skin.
-The skin.
[Eleonora Mancini] For you.
Oh, man.
Oh, man!
[Eleonora and Remigio laughing]
Oh, my God, it's so good!
That crunch.
[Stanley] You might think
that a light red wine
is best with pork,
but the people of the Castelli Romani
instead pair theirs
with a glass of the local fizzy white,
which is said to remove
the fat from your palate.
Cheers.
[bread crunching]
[Stanley] Incredible.
Oh, that bread is beautiful. You're right.
Mm.
Mm.
-A cuddle? Mm, I like that.
-Yes.
-But for your soul.
-For your soul?
-Oh, yes.
-Yeah.
-And for your stomach.
-[both laugh]
Ariccia's porchetta
shows what can be achieved
when you decide to do one thing
and do it really well.
It's a lesson
the neighboring town of Frascati
has also taken to heart.
[gentle piano music playing]
[Stanley]
Remigio's hometown has been famous
since antiquity for its wine.
Made from the grapes grown
in the south facing vineyards
that surround it.
Almost as celebrated are
the shops called fraschette,
where thirsty day-trippers can sample it.
Remigio is taking me to one
that's very close to his heart.
It's been in his family
for over 100 years,
and where he was born.
Ahh. Sì.
[speaks Italian] Stanley.
[Stanley] Okay.
[Stanley]
The fagotto Remigio is assembling
is a combination of the tastiest products
from the surrounding towns.
An homage to the days
when visitors would bring
their own food from home
to accompany the wine.
That's nice.
Mm. It's very good.
[laughs] Okay, so
[Stanley] Uffa.
But in the past the food
came from their house.
It's It's brilliant.
I love those, yeah.
Mm.
Oh, my God. Wait. What?
The handcrafted morsels keep coming.
Buffalo mozzarella,
and what may look like French fries
but are actually roast potatoes
with breadcrumbs
prepared with Remigio's own recipe.
Oh, my gosh.
Oh, my gosh. This is amazing.
Are you a chef?
Also, your porchetta is really good.
-Yes.
-I'm an expert now.
[laughter]
To share. Sharing.
-Yes.
-Yes.
But [chuckles]
[laughter]
[Stanley] These signature products
are a testament to
a tradition of true artisanship
in these villages.
They're local specialties
that have become famous
throughout Lazio and beyond.
-Thank you.
-You're welcome.
[Stanley]
But outside the reach of the big city,
the flavors aren't quite as familiar.
[cheerful, soothing melody playing]
Okay.
Daniele Papi has been a fisherman
all his life, here in Marta.
Near the borders with Umbria and Tuscany.
Where Lakes Bracciano, Vico,
and my destination, Bolsena
are nestled in the hills.
They were created
tens of thousands of years ago
when a string of collapsed volcanoes
filled up with rain and spring water.
They've long been famous
for the quality of their fish
which once graced tables across Italy.
Today, this freshwater catch can be found
in discerning kitchens around Europe.
Okay.
Sbroscia traditionally uses
only the fish left behind
after the most prized have been sold.
Buongiorno.
Today, as every day,
it's being made for the fishermen
by Giuliano Rocchi,
the president of their cooperative.
[soft symphonic music playing]
[speaking Italian]
[Stanley] Giuliano has already
started the base of the stew,
which is oil, lard,
onion, garlic, and chili.
So a lot of people don't eat pike,
I, I've eaten pike, I like pike.
[Stanley] Sì.
Ah.
[Stanley] The name "sbroscia" means slops,
or dishwater but, ironically,
the original recipe
calls for the purest water,
from Lake Bolsena itself.
[Stanley] Wow.
[speaks Italian]
[laughs]
Oh, wow. That's incredibly aromatic.
[Stanley] The aroma is somewhere
between mint and marjoram.
[slow, tender piano notes ring softly]
[Stanley] Oh, yeah.
[piano notes continue]
Wow.
The final ingredient isn't something
that goes in the sbroscia,
but where it's eaten.
[speaking Italian]
[Stanley] This unique stew can only
be found in this little corner of Lazio.
[grunts]
[Stanley] Mm. Mm.
Delicious. Delicious.
Yeah. Yeah.
Sì, sì, sì.
[Stanley] That's so good.
These men delight
in underrated ingredients.
[faint conversation in Italian]
Their tastes are proudly rustic,
something they share
with some unexpected neighbors.
[quiet, tranquil music playing]
[soft joyful melody playing]
[Stanley]
If you're searching for the good life,
the views alone
make the village of Trevinano
an appealing place to start.
Or for some, restart.
It floats in a sea of green,
in the most northwesterly corner of Lazio,
surrounded by some of Italy's
most beautiful countryside.
[thunder cracks, rumbles]
Not that you can see it today.
It's too cold and windy.
Some might even say miserable.
I would.
They make marvelous wines here,
but I'll have to visit
the vineyards another time.
The good news is that somewhere
in these cobbled streets
is a restaurant called La Parolina.
Iside de Cesare and Romano Gordini
got tired of running restaurants in Rome
and relocated here on the frontier.
Today they harvest the flavors
of the countryside
to make classic Lazian dishes,
with an elegant twist,
like hazelnut steak tartare.
This approach won them a Michelin star.
So beautiful.
[delicate piano strains resonate softly]
Delicious.
Another of Iside's signature dishes
is an elegant pasta.
One that is transformed
by the addition of a refined take
on the fisherman's rustic sbroscia.
[Stanley] Sì.
[Stanley] Hmm.
You want me to do it? Okay.
-[Iside de Cesare] Yes.
-Okay.
-You are a perfectionist.
-Yeah, well, you know
[Iside] So, please.
-[Iside] Yes.
-[Stanley] Tagliolini.
-Yeah. Oh. No.
-Oh, yes, please.
It's a big honor for me.
It's an honor for me. Are you kidding?
-You want to taste?
-Look at how beautiful that is.
Yes.
Oh, my God.
So now me move and we go to prepare the--
Oh, we go over there. Okay.
[gentle, dulcet piano chords playing]
-[Iside] So we are ready.
-[Stanley] So
Sbroscia.
[chords continue playing]
[Stanley] Beautiful.
[Stanley] Mm.
Now you move.
[Stanley] [mouth full]
That
Sorry.
That
I love that.
[triumphant
orchestral music reverberates]
Iside and Romano
aren't the only Romans in town.
Their neighbors, Giuliano and Simona,
left IT jobs in the city
to come here and make wine,
despite having no previous experience.
Who's having what wine?
[Stanley] They're joining us for lunch
with their daughter Maia.
[grand orchestral symphony
swells majestically]
[Stanley] I mean, delicious.
[Stanley]
So tell me about why you're here.
So, we had a very stressful life in Rome.
Everything was very comfortable,
but we wanted some discomfort.
-[Stanley] Oh.
-[Simona] Yeah.
We were looking for something
more authentic, more genuine.
We wanted to, you know, be cold in winter,
and-and have trouble lighting a fire.
And then to be a farmer.
It's, it's a lot of physical work,
but of course it's very rewarding.
-[Stanley] Yeah.
-We're pioneering the area.
But we're trying to revive
something that was lost.
So tell me,
when you opened the restaurant,
how many years ago?
-Nineteen years ago.
-[Stanley] But why here?
[Iside] For the beauty.
We had the, the dream
to bring people from the city,
to share the beauty with them, that's why.
[Stanley] Because this landscape,
I would think I was in Tuscany.
Yeah, this is Radicofani.
You see the tower?
-[Stanley] So that is Tuscany?
-Yeah.
Oh, no wonder why I feel
like I'm looking at Tuscany.
-[chuckles] Yeah.
-[Stanley laughs]
So, Maia, for you growing up here,
how do you feel about this place?
It's a beautiful place to live
but, like, there isn't
a Chinese place here
which I'm very sad about.
[laughing]
And, uh, when we take like a day
and we go to Rome I'm very happy
because there is, like, big stores
and, uh, the choice of, of food is so
-[Stanley] Yeah, yeah.
-The variety of food is
-Incredible, yeah.
-[Maia] Yeah.
But every time I come back here
I realize that usually
people never have the chance
to come here and see all of this.
So, I'm really happy
to live here but in the future,
I will have to move.
-I need to have some experience.
-Yeah.
[Maia] But, uh, I will come back.
I will come back.
-[Stanley] Yeah.
-We come here, the dreamers.
We had the dream to bring people
to share the beauty.
Because here we can have the inspiration.
Sì.
To the beauty and to the dreams.
-Thank you.
-Salute.
[laughter]
[Stanley] These enterprising Lazians
are culinary pioneers.
But no matter where you are
in this region,
there's one food that brings everyone,
city or countryside dweller, together.
[epic orchestral music plays]
[birds chirping]
[sheep bleating]
[Stanley] Lamb is a delicacy
that Lazians have always cherished.
Especially in springtime.
[delicate, soothing music playing]
[Stanley] I've headed back towards Rome
and the rich pastures of Castel Giuliano.
Giancarlo Gentili had a successful career
in economics in the city
but escaped back to his flock.
[Stanley] Wow.
[Stanley] Ah.
[Stanley] Sì.
[Stanley laughs]
[bleating]
[Giancarlo Gentili] Okay.
[rooster crows]
[Stanley] Today is Sunday,
so Giancarlo and his brother Giuseppe
are cooking a classic
Lazian springtime dish.
Okay.
This is abbacchio scottadito.
Abbacchio is freshly
slaughtered suckling lamb.
-[speaking Italian]
-The ribs, yes.
[Stanley] "The word "scottadito"
means scorched fingers.
Grilling the meat in this way
one can see how that name came about.
Oh, look at that now.
-Oi. [bleep].
-[laughter]
Well, y-yes, that is its name.
[delicate, tranquil chords playing]
[Stanley] Three generations
of the Gentili family live on the farm.
I'll sit here.
Most of their produce
is destined for Roman tables
but today it's destined for us.
[Stanley] Mm.
[indistinct chatter]
[Stanley speaks Italian]
Yeah, it is.
Oh, wow.
[indistinct chatter]
Delicious. Oh, thank you.
Everything on this table
is a glimpse into Lazio's past
as well as its present.
[Stanley] Ah, sì.
[laughter]
[laughter]
[indistinct chatter]
[Stanley] Rural Lazio
was unknown territory to me.
Its reputation as Rome's larder
is well deserved.
But more than that,
the capital and the countryside
share a joint culinary soul.
A passion for the uncomplicated
yet delicious food
that I know will draw me and many others
back time and time again.
[sheep bleating]
♪♪