Long Way Round (2004) s01e06 Episode Script

Western Mongolia to Yakutsk

Got sun on my face
Sleeping rough on the road
I'll tell you all about it
When I get home
Comin' round to meet you
The long way round
We're gonna ride 20,000 miles in 115 days through 12 countries.
Europe, Kazakhstan and Mongolia.
And then ride the Road of Bones in Far Eastern Russia.
Then we're gonna fly to Alaska
and go through Canada, America and New York.
We're gonna give these guys video cameras.
They'll have cameras on their motorcycles.
They will have cameras on their helmets
and mics in their helmets.
I feel like a fighter pilot.
I'm dropping bombs now.
We're having a third motorcycle travel with them.
And on that third motorcycle will be a cameraman.
In addition, there will be two support vehicles.
We will travel around the world as well,
linking up with the guys at borders.
But really, the motorcycles will be on their own.
Are you okay? Are they okay?
-Russ? -Off. Let him off.
Good.
You both okay?
Let's get away from the vehicle.
Please tell me you're both okay. Jesus Christ.
Let's get away from the vehicle.
Go, Vasiliy, go.
Are you okay, Vasiliy?
He's hurt his back.
You okay?
It suddenly kicked sideways and we went round.
And I said to him, "Be careful."
Have 1,000 miles ahead. What they do just now?
-I know. -We have another car.
We have another car.
It's terrible. This may still run.
Yeah, yeah. They're both okay.
Both shaken, obviously.
Vasiliy's holding his back, but I think he's all right.
I'm thinking about Russ and Dave and the others, really.
I don't even give a fuck about this, to be honest.
It'd be great if we get it working. I would like to go to them, really,
is what I'd like to do.
Now they've got a car on its roof somewhere over there and
I don't know.
They're gonna see if they can get it back onto its--
back upright and see if it can be driven.
Stop!
So quick. Bang!
Next minute, I'm, like, covered in glass.
Then all this fluid is running. I don't know what it is.
I'm thinking it's gasoline. We got 80 liters of gasoline
and 40 cans of cooking oil on the roof.
I think the back tire's flat.
The whole thing has just dug in and flipped us over.
-Jesus Christ. -That's gone up like a fucking balloon.
We can't keep doing this. We just can't keep doing the same thing.
Vasiliy could've gotten hurt. He could've gotten hurt. I mean, badly.
You have family, children
I have family, children too.
Why do we have to risk?
I do understand it. I've got a daughter as well.
We gotta go a lot slower.
Just make our miles each day and see what happens.
It's only gonna get tougher in Siberia.
I think that what we do is
Ewan and I are still trying to decide
whether to stay in Mongolia or head for Russia.
Yeah, the last couple of days has been such a struggle
on the roads here.
Yeah.
But then maybe the point is that it is a struggle,
and that we just struggle on.
I just don't know.
I had a long phone call with Dave.
Yeah.
And now you know that 50 miles is more realistic.
Or 70 miles is realistic here.
You know, Siberia. Who knows what's gonna happen.
And you know that North America could happen in three weeks.
If you finished August 14th as opposed to July 28th,
would that be the end of the world?
I had a long chat with him about--
just about what Mongolia means and how it feels and
What a cultural and spiritual place it is, and it's beautiful.
And that it would be a terrible shame to miss that
on this trip of a lifetime because the roads are difficult.
And maybe it would be a better idea just to be a week late in New York.
Yeah. Don't miss the stuff that you love about this thing.
'Cause this is once in a lifetime, so
So that's all I'd say.
Who knows how many times we pass this way. And then
It was lovely to speak to him about that because he really--
Because it suddenly was clearer. I mean
What a terrible solution to the problem that would be,
to just bail out.
'Cause it's by far the most phenomenal
and fascinating country we've been in so far.
It would be terrible to leave now and go back into Russia
and then regret it later
and think, "Well, if only we'd been a bit tougher
or if we'd just accepted the fact that it would take us longer
and just get on with it."
That would be awful.
Thank you. Thank you from my heart.
Thank you so much.
It's good.
What we thought just couldn't be fixed, they've done.
You know, they really, really think and they've got ingenuity.
It's just fantastic.
I'm back.
Thank you.
-Wow. What is it? -Snuff.
Snuff?
That's good snuff.
I used to take a lot of snuff.
From what I can gather, I'm not all that sure,
but earlier he told me he was 93.
It's hard here. It's really hard.
But it's also very beautiful.
We just have to concentrate more on the beauty
and less on the hardship, you know?
No one said it was gonna be easy.
I didn't think it was gonna be easy.
But I didn't also think that my first reaction would be to
"Well, let's just shortcut. Let's just bypass Mongolia."
What kind of attitude was that? But it was a low moment, I guess.
So we're gonna carry on along the route that we had planned,
and just, you know
take it easier.
Open our eyes to what's around.
It's difficult when you're looking at five feet in front of your front wheel
so that you don't fall off.
Actually, when you look five feet in front of your wheel, you usually do fall off.
It's best to look much further ahead than that. Just a little tip.
I'm just so glad that you're here.
Oh. I've-- I was crying in my helmet.
-Really? -Yeah.
-I was so worried about you. -Were you?
I saw the Animal. God, it looked crushed. It was terrifying.
It looks like they shouldn't have survived it. The car.
It was a real close call there.
I just-- I'm so glad that they're okay.
God, we were lucky, man.
My wife said, she said that, "Don't forget that, when it's really bad,
that you're on this great adventure and that it's probably
the one great adventure that maybe you'll ever have in your life."
And she said, "Just get on with it and don't be stupid."
Which is quite right.
We're gonna get on and stay and get on with it.
Not be pussies and fuck off the minute it gets hard.
Off on our own again.
A fresh start, new day, sunny day. Nice.
Well, this road is sadly the best road that we've been on
since we've been in Mongolia.
We were told that the roads got better the further east you went.
At least we're getting some miles under our belt now.
That's doing wonders for my spirit.
So funny, you aim for a town on the map, and they're just so tiny.
The very nature of it being on a map
just makes me feel that it must be substantial.
Today I'm eating the fat and all.
They put big lumps of fat in their food
'cause it keeps you very warm in the winter.
And they say in the summer, it makes you warm on the inside
so you're better able to cope with the heat on the outside.
Today I'm giving it a go.
We finally reached the lake last night, which was a great moment,
to get to the White Lake.
I don't think I've ever done anything harder.
It's been quite extraordinary.
I've fallen behind in my diaries,
and now I just feel like a schoolboy who hasn't done his homework.
I'll have a wee drumstick.
Sorry, this is disgusting to listen to.
And to watch.
It's snowing.
It's bloody well snowing.
I don't believe it.
It's fucking snowing.
I'm a bit homesick today and
I'm very homesick today.
I'm not homesick. I'm family sick.
I'm sick of not being with my family.
It's snowing.
Right now, it's snowing. Can you believe it?
It's May and it's snowing.
I can't remember what they're called, but they're little
This program's just full of us not knowing anything. Have you noticed?
Wowee.
Can't remember anyone's names, can't remember where we are.
It's amazing how much this looks like Scotland out there.
It's just blowing me away today.
I feel like I'm on the west coast of Scotland.
Cold today.
Woke up this morning, and it was bloody snowing.
Can you believe it? I mean, I thought
You know, we've had rain, we've had mud, we've had rivers,
we've had turned over cars, we've had everything.
A man came into my ger this morning, kicked me in the balls as well,
which was nice.
Felt such a freedom at being in that landscape
with those people who were living in tents,
who still lived in tents.
And they move around the countryside, and just a complete way of life,
and I was so struck by the simplicity of it.
How many are in there?
-They're all in there. -They all in--
That's how much you get into a jeep.
It's like a tin of sardines.
Actually, I fancy a tin of sardines.
I can't tell you how nice the people are here.
Every, every single person we have met has been incredibly friendly,
incredibly helpful, always wanting to help in any way they can.
We went into this ger, and we sat down, and we had this
She gave us some suu,
which is, I suppose, just warm milk and sugar.
But because they cook everything with shit--
you know, the cow shit, dried cow shit-- it had this sort of earthy taste to it.
I know it's kind of a bit odd, but it was delicious.
-Oh, my God. -It's good.
-Mm! It's really good. -Thank you.
I don't think he liked the curry.
Doesn't look like we're gonna be able to use this bridge.
We need to be on the other side of the river.
I was walking through the river to try and find a place to cross.
Look at that. Look.
This motorbike just hops up onto the rickety old bridge
which we thought was impassable
and just drives across the bridge.
And I'm sitting there with no trousers on looking the right fucking idiot.
-How deep was it? -That was just funny.
I'm glad they came along actually.
What is it?
I'm so weary today I can't believe it.
I don't know which way is up today.
I don't know what's going on.
Nice knockers.
We're a day away from Ulaanbaatar,
and we're gonna visit this monastery this morning
and then push on.
It's one of the very few remaining monasteries.
It was very soporific, and I feel really tranquil.
It was lovely.
We've come unstuck again. Charley and I are doing just fine, but
Always blaming the little ones.
Funny how it's always, always
always Claudio.
Isn't it funny?
It's all sandy now.
This sand is hellish.
Just like The bike just doesn't steer.
It's just exhausting.
Please let us get out of this sand.
And onto some kind of rocks or dirt or something like that.
Look at this.
Look at this.
Look at this! It's a fucking road!
Such a beautiful tarmac.
Look how smooth it is. See how smooth it is?
And it's warm and it's
It's hard.
And it's Mongolia.
I just don't know how to express how I feel.
I didn't think I'd ever see a road again.
I bet you're really jealous, Claudio. Lookee, lookee, lookee.
Do you want a bite? Oh, no, you can't.
This is Ted Simon.
Who wrote Jupiter's--
Our hero and guru and the reason why we're all here.
-Oh, no, no. -Ted Simon wrote Jupiter's Travels.
If you haven't read it, you should go buy it now.
One of the reasons that Ewan came up with the idea
of going around the world was because of Ted Simon's book.
He spent four years going around the world.
Four years on a Triumph back in the '70s.
I think the motorcycle is best
because it puts you so much in contact with everything.
You experience much more closely the nature of the terrain.
You can almost taste the cultures that you are riding through.
Because it exposes you to the climate and to the wind and rain and--
It's a much more complete experience.
He's taken us to the market 'cause we wanna buy some Mongolian riding boots.
So we're just gonna see what's here.
It's a lot bigger than the one we went to before.
Same shit through, basically.
You come around the corner
and there's a whole section dedicated to them.
The Mongolian riding boot.
Now it's just a question of finding the right pair.
-Yeah. -You know, they're just plain.
I like the round
-I like the round toe. -Round toe.
I'm meant for the more kind of economy version.
I think this is more of the budget boot.
It's not as fancy, but it's
I like the kind of shitkicker look. You know what I mean?
I'm not into the kind of-- I don't want a dance boot.
I want a biker boot.
We're doing wrestling today.
And we've got these
these wrestling clothes.
We met up with the support crew to have a go at this Mongolian wrestling,
which is a national sport.
I'm actually completely chickening out, yeah.
I'm not gonna do the wrestling. I'm a lover, not a fighter.
I'm a bit worried 'cause they all look about twice the size of me.
There's a lot of underpant grabbing as well and sort of hoicking.
I'm a bit nervous, I must say.
I've got a little razor blade under my thing.
I'm gonna cut his pants off and embarrass him
and get him on the ground.
It seems to me this whole wrestling thing in Mongolia
is all about ritual.
And they have these ritual dances before they fight.
It's all about eagles.
And the guy who's lost has to fly underneath
the wings of the guy who's beaten him.
Charley looks particularly fantastic with the purple sleeves.
My arms are so tired.
I'm just gonna lean here.
I'm gonna get pummeled here.
No! No!
No!
God, that was over, like, in seconds.
I was on my ass before I'd even realized.
I'm so disappointed. I want another go.
I've managed to persuade Jim
to do it with me.
I'm in trouble.
As a special treat, Charley and Jim will get a special one-off bout.
I'm gonna get pummeled. I can feel it already.
I'm gonna have to get super aggressive,
and I might even resort to a bit of biting as well.
I'm not sure, but don't tell anyone that, okay?
I think Jim's got it in him, you know.
Locked down aggression way down low.
He's got very nice feet work there, Charley, for his eagle dance.
Whoo! Whoo!
It looks exhausting.
It's been very important for us to do something for UNICEF
while we're doing this trip.
We're here in Ulaanbaatar in Mongolia.
These kids live in the heating ducts
that heat up all the apartment blocks all around here.
And they live in those in winter.
-Angelo. -Jinx.
Nerg├╝i.
-Sukh. -And I'm Ewan.
-Charley. -Charley.
-Charley. -People like saying your name.
All over the world, people enjoy saying "Charley."
I do as well.
-Charley. -Charley.
Charley.
You've got one up here. I've got one down here.
Yeah. Very cool.
You look really cool.
Yeah.
God, the heat. You really feel the heat coming out.
It's amazing, isn't it?
Yeah. These are the heating pipes here, I guess.
It's too hot. It's very hot, that one, yeah.
For these boys, either their families have abandoned them at age five
because they don't have the money to feed them,
or the parents have moved into the streets with their kids,
and the kids have got lost from the parents.
And they sleep down here because it's minus 30 outside,
and they are living in this very hot sewer
all throughout the winter.
Obviously, you can see it's bleak. It's really bleak.
The most terrible thing about it is that the kids have got hopes
and they want to do things with their lives,
but you just think, "How is it gonna happen?"
How on earth are you gonna become a driver
when you're living in a hole in the street?
How do you get from there to do anything with your life?
This little one here, who was found two weeks ago,
will only talk to this girl here.
And they've seemed to have found some bond together.
Nothing could've prepared me for how young the children were there.
There was girls there that were two years old.
There was a little family of four. Their little sister was barely two.
And the wee boy was looking after her like he was her father.
And I watched him making sure that she'd eaten her porridge,
and I just couldn't speak.
I couldn't find anything to say. I didn't want to ask any questions.
I just was shocked by how young they were.
This center is a government-run center.
And it's centers like these that are doing good in a short term,
but the key in a long term is more of a challenge.
It's about dealing with the kids that are already on the street,
but at the same time
preventing other children from becoming like this.
-Like this, yeah. -And that's what UNICEF's trying to do.
Because once they're in this situation, it's very, very difficult to get out.
The road beckons, I guess, and off we go.
Got to go.
We're about to cross into Siberia,
where we're gonna make our way up to the Road of Bones,
which is the road built by Stalin's political prisoners
in Far Eastern Russia.
Heck yeah. I'm really looking forward to it.
This is the big one.
This is where it potentially could get tough.
I love Mongolia. I'm just kinda sad to be out of it, you know?
So I'm a bit blue today, and that's just the way it is.
Really was blown away by Mongolia.
And it was everything that I'd wanted it to be.
Mongolia was what I was after, and I miss that a bit.
And when we got back into Russia and
The first thing I noticed were houses and doors and rooves
and chimneys and streets and--
I kinda thought, "Aw, that's--" I wanna go back.
I wanna go back to the land that I don't understand, you know?
I'm trying to get a haircut.
Let's see what the Russians are making out of it.
And that's the damage.
I've got a cold and I'm on antibiotics,
but we're gonna go to Lake Baikal and see this shaman tonight.
And it's so clear that you can see fish swimming 40 meters down.
This shaman guy who we met this morning has very kindly offered us his house.
His great grandfather built it, and his pen is right on the lake.
It's actually something like 20 meters from the lake.
One for the road.
We're heading west at the moment, which just goes against the grain.
But we're going to go to Lake Baikal. It's the most incredible lake.
It has a fifth of the world's fresh water.
So we've gotta go and see it. We're so close.
It'll take us a couple of hours to get there.
The guy whose house we're staying in has organized for some shaman lady
to summon up the gods of Lake Baikal for us.
So it should be quite exciting.
A Swiss chalet by the lake.
I wasn't expecting a deserted house.
I'm a bit disappointed.
I am.
I thought I'd be honest about it.
I'm slightly disappointed by the whole thing.
Well. There you go.
I was expecting Lake Geneva or something, you know?
It's a bit marshy. There's lots of moss.
And our shaman is not gonna come.
She'll be here. She'll be down in a minute.
She'll make a huge entrance.
Speaking in tongues and stripping off her clothes.
Well, maybe, hopefully just speaking in tongues.
She's not a happy shaman, is she?
Okay, okay, firstly--
Okay, first, where would she like to do the ritual first?
I wanted the table here.
All right.
She's really starting to annoy me now.
She says that it's gonna be beautiful.
She is used to-- When she makes a custom, it has to be ready properly.
All right, so let's clean the shore.
We have clean-- How much of the shore do we have to clean?
-Just-- Just the -All of this?
That's what she wants.
Feeling distinctly unspiritual about this whole affair.
-Together. Yeah. -They must be touching.
She's up there with one of the best.
I've worked with some prima donnas in my time, man, but she's up there.
It was like a really weird experience, wasn't it?
Wasn't a whole lot of love in it, was there?
I don't suit traveling west. I'm just a going east kinda guy.
From here, we'll try and get to Chita within two days.
And then after Yakutsk we'll be another, you know, four or five days, I guess.
And then from Yakutsk, the boat journey round,
'cause that bit's really unpassable,
to the beginning of the Road of Bones, and then the Road of Bones.
So it's all in little sections.
Because the thought of riding from here to Magadan
is too much for my head to get around. You know what I mean?
Siberia, oh, I love you
Your trees are green And your skies are blue
I thought somewhere along here's gotta be the spot
and I think this is it.
Flat
Access to the river for a swim.
Come and see the river.
You see, you don't have to go to the south of France or Spain.
You could come here to Russia on your holiday.
There's no one here.
You got the beach all to yourself.
Our relationship has deteriorated so badly that we now have our own tents.
Okay, he's not looking. It's because
I can't take his smelly armpits anymore.
His feet, God. Jesus.
Actually, no it's not. It's his snoring.
Actually, have you got 10 minutes?
I can tell you a whole list of things.
No, I'm only joking.
It's only 'cause I wanna wank.
And I wanna wank in private.
I think we'll get to Chita tomorrow.
And the one thing we have to decide on is whether we take the--
There's a train that runs from Chita to Tynda.
And by road it's about 1,000 kilometers.
But we can't get any consistent reports as to whether the road exists or not.
On the map it's a dotted line, which means it's under construction.
What would be terrible, if you were driving on the train
and you looked down and there was the road running beside you,
this beautiful tarmac road.
That would be a bit of a shame.
This is the driver who's got the articulated lorry.
He's driven to Magadan.
And he's telling me about the road.
Tynda? This road okay for the motorcycle?
Chita to Tynda. The train.
A very large section of that road is very, very bad.
So we're gonna get the train.
Are you okay?
-Claudio? -Huh?
-You hurt yourself? -I'm fine.
Bloody stupid.
Stupid!
-He was going so fast. -Was he?
I was looking. I was going, "Jesus, slow down, slow down, slow down."
I was hoping my new hairstyle will make up for the lack of experience,
but it doesn't work.
We're gonna see if we can get the bikes on a train
and take the train to Tynda
and then we can just ride up to Yakutsk from there,
and then do the Road of Bones.
Come on.
So far, so bad.
Yeah.
Maybe it's over there. That looks like a big thing.
The fact that I didn't concentrate on my Russian lessons
and the fact that we've gotta find out not only when the trains leave
Is there one today? Is it tomorrow?
Where do we take the bikes to put the bikes on the train?
I should let Charley do it.
Chita to Switzerland
Excuse me, guys, are you from London?
Yeah.
Hello, my name's Eric.
Your friend say you need help with interpretation.
Yes?
Oh, my God. Yes, that would be fantastic.
Okay, I'll help you.
That boy started talking to me in English,
and I said, "Well, just go in and find Ewan and Claudio and help them."
I don't think she wants you to film.
She looked very surprised when he said three motorcycles.
She looked very confused.
They have place just for people.
If we get the bikes in there, and then we can travel in the same train.
Your motorbike is too heavy.
It's not nearly as heavy as a car.
They must take cars.
I don't mind sitting in with the bikes. We could sit in the cargo with the bikes.
It doesn't matter to us.
-Yeah? -Yeah.
Tell her that. It doesn't matter to us.
-Yeah. -Good news?
-Yeah. -Wow.
-When? -Now.
They change mind.
-What? So they've said no? -Yes.
I'm just gonna find out if we can do it behind everyone's backs.
If these guys can get us on a car, boxcar or something.
Is there any way we can do it informally?
-Yeah. -Yeah?
Once the bikes are on the train and we're sitting on the train,
and the train starts to move then
we can believe that we're on the train.
But until then, I don't know.
It's gonna take a bit of time to put all three bikes on.
I hope they realize that.
We're keeping a very low profile now.
We're not drawing attention to ourselves in any way.
Were one of the officials to come out of the office now,
we certainly would go unnoticed.
So that's good.
And we'll just have to play it by ear. Just blend in. Blend in.
Watch out, watch out, watch out, watch out! Jesus.
-So 3,000? -Yes, for three bikes.
Completely illegal transportation services.
-Thank you so much. -Okay, you guys.
-Good luck. Goodbye and good luck. -Okay.
-E-mail us. E-mail us in London. -Yeah. Sure. Okay.
On a goods train like Boxcar Willie. Look.
You can't go to Siberia without being on the railway.
So it's brilliant.
We've had a day to just sit and be a passenger, basically,
and just look at the world go by.
It's been lovely.
It was quite an event getting the bikes off the train.
Jesus.
Don't wanna do that again.
So we totally just drove through Tynda.
Totally drove through Tynda.
We got our first puncture.
On my bike. Can you believe it?
Doing my bike
Don't worry, guys. I've got the front.
Lift the tire up.
Watch it doesn't come off the stand.
Nothing to see here. These aren't the bikes you're looking for.
You don't need to see their pass. Move along. Move along.
Hello.
No, really The beard's coming back.
It's practical and it's much easier to keep clean than they say. You know?
What?
Long Way Round.
Bad hair never felt so good.
Oh, yeah.
Ah, I've had such a lovely time today.
-Shit, look at that. Cracked there. -Ah, fuck.
Oh, my God.
It's cracked here as well.
Ewan's frame is cracked on both sides, which is not great news.
It just made me feel sick, really, to tell you the truth.
Well, it can all be welded.
It's just getting it somewhere to get it welded.
I think we should go back to Tynda because we know it's a big town.
So we can stay there and we can get these fixed.
When you look at the structure on the back, it just
It's not built to carry this kinda weight.
It's amazing it lasted this long.
The plan is to try and stop a car to take this stuff into Tynda.
And we'll follow the car in.
-Tynda? -Tynda? You.
No, no. Okay.
Maybe it was my jacket.
You go Tynda?
Our motorcycle broken.
Here.
This. And in here.
We will go.
Okay, see you in Tynda.
Don't worry. Don't worry.
Push a plate on this side as well, just to make it nice and strong.
Okay.
-He knows what he's doing anyway. -Yeah.
-This is where it was absolutely -Snapped off.
snapped in half. And I'm so happy.
Sick feeling's gone. My mood has lightened.
He's very kindly letting us leave the bikes here till Saturday,
so we have tomorrow to sort our kit out,
take the day off, and then come and get the bikes Saturday morning.
And carry on up to Yakutsk.
I liked Tynda very much. I had a great time in that town.
It's a very grim-- It's a sad place, you know, it's a grim town,
and there's really nothing going on there at all,
but I had a really good time there.
There's a crap road going out of it and a crap road going into it and
It's, like, really in the middle of the Siberian forest is this city.
I think it's quite fascinating. What do people do here?
Eleventh of June. Charley and Ewan slimming down.
Basically, I've gone for all that just there, literally.
And I've thrown all that away.
-Ewan? -Good.
I'm getting rid of all of this.
It's a
It's an incredible amount of weight.
My bike will thank me.
-Good morning. -Morning.
Ewan was saying he didn't realize how much he loved his bike until it broke.
Out in the middle of far east Russia, and suddenly your bike is broken.
And you think, "What am I gonna do? This is everything.
It's taken me around the world."
Until it's broken, you take it for granted.
It's like your family can get taken for granted and, you know,
when you go away
and you realize that, really, the only thing you really miss
are your children.
And your wife.
And sex. I miss sex.
We're on this road, all the way to Yakutsk,
which is some six-- 700 miles north of here.
The road up to Yakutsk
It's a road that mainly only lorries use.
There's a massive amount of dust in the air.
Like thick, brown dust that you can't see through.
So you know there's a lorry in front, but you can't see the lorry.
You were completely blind. You couldn't see the road.
And then you'd pull slightly out to the left,
and then at some point
you would come through the dust the lorry was kicking up.
And only at that point, would you be able to see
if there was something coming the other way.
There's a kind of sick pleasure to it,
the overtaking where you can't see a thing.
It's just a complete whiteout.
Really annoyed that I'd woken him up.
He's sleeping in there.
-No. -Yeah,
there's a guy with a beard and a hat.
So weird.
-No, thank you. -Thank you for our lovely lunch.
That was lovely.
This lady, she wouldn't let us pay.
She didn't want any money.
It was a beautiful meal. Good food.
-No. -Yummy, yummy.
The top. I specifically had two, and I put it inside.
Whilst we had lunch with this lovely lady
somebody stole my bag.
Credit cards, his telephone, his tent. Everything has been taken.
To nick something off a bike is just to take someone's
You know, what else do you have on there but the things that you need to survive,
like a tent and You know what I mean?
Feel really stupid.
-Well, it's not your fault, mate. -No, but still. It's the first time.
It's the first time in my life
I took stuff from my bum bag out.
Wherever I am, wherever I go,
I always have a bloody stupid bum bag, you know.
My wife, she gets annoyed
because I'm always walking around with this stupid bum bag.
The first day in my life I took stuff out, bang. It got stolen.
Well
He'll have to move in with you, Charley.
That's all there is to it.
I thought about home all day today. Isn't that funny?
Had real pangs about being at home.
Silly things like being in the kitchen and being in the garden.
Probably now couldn't actually physically be further away from home.
Maybe that's why.
Yeah, maybe it's pretty much the other side.
I think we've ridden to the other side of the world, yeah.
Well, this bit here,
in Far Eastern Russia, was the worrying bit. Always.
This is the hardest bit.
And when we did the maps, this is gonna be the toughest bit
that we'll enjoy in retrospect.
I just don't have a clue as to what to expect.
We started asking people, anybody we met,
if anybody knew anything about the Road of Bones.
Yakutsk?
-Magadan. -Magadan.
You've never been to it, no?
-No, it's-- Bad. -No, no. Bad road.
The word "wetlands" was used for the first time.
Apparently
Apparently, the first bit's like this. Maybe a bit worse than this.
And then after that the wetlands begin.
I don't like the word "wetlands."
Do you think we'll get to Magadan?
-For you? -Yeah.
This is usually where you say, "Oh, I'm sure it'll be fine."
-Say that. -I'm sure it'll be fine.
The reality of the situation is that you do
mile by mile, inch by inch, you know.
That's how you get through it.
But the things that are making me concerned
are river crossings.
Crossing water.
Riding through mud.
Deep mud.
And I suppose, getting to a point where we can't go any further.
The idea that we might end up in a situation
that stops us in our tracks.
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